Reply With QuoteI would lube or spray the threads at the end of the cable it will make it easier to get it back in . Are you sure it unthreaded or did it break the cable?
well I should've know when my TPS didn't get below 0.8. And then it just came out.
I tried for an hour to get it threaded back in but couldn't get it. Anyone have tips here other than selling my bike bc I am an idiot?
I already pulled up the air box and airbox baseplate. FML
I would lube or spray the threads at the end of the cable it will make it easier to get it back in . Are you sure it unthreaded or did it break the cable?
Cable is fine. I lubed the **** out of it. The tough angle plus inability to apply pressure of the male to female part is making it tough for it to catch.
Maybe I just need to be more patient. Beat.
that and try removing the left OEM air scoop and front cylinder spark plug. anything to allow your hand to get between the front cylinder and frame and thread the assembly back together.Maybe I just need to be more patient.
HINT TO OTHERS: to avoid this dreaded situation during tps reset....if you have turned your 03-07 idle speed adjuster wheel out approx. 2-1/2 turns from its initial setting and still can't "0 out" your value....repeatedly blip the throttle. do NOT keep unwinding the adjuster wheel.
Sadly I kept blipping throttle as unscrewing it out. Not sure what happened .
To add to Lunatic's post- Folks need to quit obsessing on reaching actual numeric "zero" when backing out the idle adjustment. Depending on how far off the TPS calibration is, it might not actually decrease to literal zero. In the example by the OP, it only got to 0.8. You only need to back it out until the observed TPS degree value stops decreasing, then stop. Completely ignore what the number value is. It's irrelevant. Blip the throttle a couple of times to eliminate any residual tension in the throttle cable. Back out the idle adjust another turn and observe the TPS reading to make sure it has completely stopped decreasing. Once the TPS has stopped decreasing it has reached the point at which the throttle plate has completely closed, and this is when you hit reset to calibrate the new 'zero' point. Depending on your current calibration state, the displayed TPS degree value when it stops decreasing might be less than zero and be a negative value. In this case, if you were to simply stop at 'zero' and hit reset, your calibration would be off because you calibrated a new zero point at which the throttle plate was still slightly open. Make sense?
I've also seen way too much emphasis on the TPS degree setting after the reset, to the point where folks almost argue about it. It's nothing more than a ballpark (and temporary) throttle opening sufficient to allow the bike to idle until you set the final idle speed after the bike has warmed up sufficiently. It makes no difference if you initially set it to 5 degrees or 5.5 or 6 or whatever. As long as your bike idles and lets you get it warmed up by sitting or a short ride, you're fine because your going to make a final tweak to bring it to your desired operating idle rpm.
Tork--- very helpful post and it's the first time i have been told that i may not have to hit ZERO.
Awesome help.
^^^^^^ great info tork and thanks for posting
Great info
No problem. Hope it's helpful to someone. A proper TPS reset is absolutely essential to a proper running bike. If your TPS calibration is off, even by a small amount, it can really make your bike run like ****, and with head-scratching/hair-pulling symptoms that can make you chase your tail troubleshooting and dicking around and throwing parts at other areas of your bike (fuel pump, plugs, ECM mapping, etc.) without success. That said, it doesn't have to be continuously reset, nor is it needed when making changes to the intake and/or exhaust (as some recommend for some unexplainable reason). But when you do it, it has to be done correctly and accurately.
rchuff's recommendaton to lube the idle cable threads is spot on. It will also make the adjustment action buttery-smooth and eliminate adjustment twitchyness. When the cable threads become corroded or sufficiently dirty, it can cause the cable to bind and break, or snap the adjustment head off (personal experience). For me, it's also worth the extra 5-10 minutes time it takes to pull off the throttle body rubber boot for easy access to the throttle plate and spray some carb cleaner on the throttle plate and associated rotating parts to free it up from any friction or debris that might cause the plate to partially hang open prior to zeroing the TPS. I usually make a visual check to make sure it's completely and absolutely closed before hitting reset instead of relying solely on ECMSPY/Tunerpro TPS reading. Also, if your throttle cables are adjusted too tightly and don't have a tiny bit of slack, it can prevent the plate from closing all the way and bork your TPS calibration.
Apologies for my long-winded posts. They all seem to be that way.
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