Some guidance on stator replacement?

[fiveomar]

Hello all,

I have a few questions on physically replacing the stator. What a pain it was to remove the primary cover with what was in the way but I'm finally in. My questions:

a) Now, per the Service Manual, I have to remove the engine sprocket (see picture I attached). Problem is I don't have the Harley tool to lock the gears and keep them from spinning as I try to loosen the sprocket, but it seems like I can wedge something in there (leather belt or some other object) instead? A guy uses a leather belt in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLnJ6JaYMGE

b) How much force is required to loosen the engine sprocket...will I really need to use a heat gun and a very large breaker bar?

c) Once I have the engine sprocket loosened, it seems that everything (engine sprocket, chain, and clutch) slides off as one unit, without having to loosen anything else?

d) I found damaged/loose copper wires and other metal pieces, and it appears the stator has disintegrated. Based on the research I've done, it seems that the rotor has made contact with the stator and caused it to fall apart, and that there should be a clearance/gap between the rotor and stator. In trying to address the root cause of the issue so that it doesn't happen again, is this a common issue on these bikes, and is there anything that may be causing the rotor to push into the stator over time after you initially set the right clearance?

Even if you can only answer one or two of these questions it would be appreciated...thanks!

20150720_185527.jpg 20150720_185513.jpg

[fiveomar]

Anyone? At least with how to loosen/remove the sprocket?

[mrlogix]

Lunatic usually comes online early Eastern Time. There are a couple of others, well a lot of others that can help also but they are all on here at different hours/timezones. Not a Blast owner and don't have a manual for one. Sorry.

[mrlogix]

what year is your Blast?

[mrlogix]

I just downloaded a 2007 parts manual and the 2002 Service manual.

A-The engine sprocket torque value for the 2002 is 190-210 ft/lbs. with Loctite. Yes, you will need the put something to lock the sprocket. I don't know if I would try to lock it up by wedging something between the chain and sprocket. That would apply a lot of stress to a localized area of the primary chain. If you look at the picture of the crank locking tool, it is a bar installed at such an angle that it will transfer the resisting force on more of a tooth to tooth area. The tool looks like a piece of flat stock steel about 1/4"-5/16" thick by 1 1/2"-2" wide. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from contact point to contact point for the bar length. See in the picture the end of the bar that is in contact with the clutch hub? The end has been ground so that it is making full contact from the base of the tooth to the tip, on both teeth. Take your time and grind this angle on the end of the flat stock. Don't forget that it will be on angle when you use it. The other end needs the end to be radiused that the contact area is applying the force to the base of the tooth because of the angle.

B- Again it has 190-210 ft/lbs. of torque preload with Loctite. Use at least a 1/2" drive breaker bar about 18"-24" long and you may need a cheater pipe over that depending on how much ass you have. The red Loctite will release with a low to medium amount of heat. To hot to touch, but not hot enough to discolor the metal.

C- No. Looking at your picture I can still see the clutch plate retaining ring on the spring diaphragm. The manual says the clutch pack needs disassembled to remove the clutch hub. Chapter previous to the primary drive chapter.

D- the only way I can see that a rotor and stator can come in contact with each other is if the rotor by chance caught excessive length of the stator wiring some way, the crank bent, the crank sprocket nut came loose, or the magnets on the rotor came loose and lodged between the rotor and stator with the engine running.

Like I said, I have never owned any other Buell besides my 1125 which is a completely different engine. Hopefully Lunatic or someone will correct me if I am wrong.

[Chicknstripn]

I own an xb and have taken the primary apart several times.
mrlogix is right on about using a piece of flat bar. I used a 3" brass door hinge. I wrapped that bastard a few times with duct tape and it's worked great! I've used it at least three time to remove and retorque.
The rotor primary chain and sprocket will come off as one unit. I've never done it any other way. keep in mind the magnets on the rotor are pretty stout. Takes the good ole Kung foo grip to get off.
I don't know is stator issues are common on a blast. What I will say is I have over 40k on my xb and have had
no issues with my stator.
And that last sentence will probably be the kiss of death for my charging system.
If I repeated anything mrlogix already stated I appologize for being to lazy to read through his post.
I will say his advice is usually spot on.
Good luck.
Oh yeah. You're gonna need to eat your wheaties before you go to break the torque on that sprocket nut. That and a good breaker bar should get it done.
DO NOT USE IMPACT TOOLS. Using such tools could result in crank or transmission damage.

[fiveomar]

Thanks guys, this seems like a royal pain, but I have no choice. It's a 2002 Buell Blast, by the way.

[Theycallmecrash]

Its not that bad, the guys covered most of your removal, the clutch doesnt need disassembly just snap ring off and that nut is reverse thread and approximately 80-90 ft lbs back on.
For rotor replacement there is a drag specialties rotor that is greatly improved design. Reassembly, make sure you use something like brake cleaner or Dawn soap and clean the oil off the threads for the shafts and nuts. Apply lock tite to the nuts and absolutely nake sure they are torqued properly. A loose nut can become catastrophic. Good luck

[user_deleted]

Thanks guys, this seems like a royal pain, but I have no choice. It's a 2002 Buell Blast, by the way.

you want royal pain son? do a GoldWing stator replacement sometime. in essence you split the entire bike in 1/2 to access the faulty component.
chicken....john...and jacob nailed it above as usual. great help and info provided
here's link with pics and tutorial. no minor variances on a blast that i'm aware of. regarding the primary locking tool, contact robin who's site ID is thrstrmech. he posted up perhaps a year ago with a wonderful home-made tool including pics and precise dimensions. can't find the original post but it's a big help.

http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthr...or-replacement