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Thread: Bad electric gremlin

  1. #11
    Thanks lunatic. I've been using this diagram from the repair manual: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2pi4196d0k...ng-diagram.pdf

    From what I understand, 12v positive lead is the red wire (via the battery fuse). When key switch is on, power feeds to both red/grey and red/black wires. Am I safe to think hot wiring those wires will bypass the keyswitch entirely? Red/Grey leads to headlight (via the Aux fuse). It would rule out the key switch being faulty.

  2. #12
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    ^^^^^ yes that should be correct and would eliminate the ignition switch. opened your link to wiring diagram and according to same you are correct.

  3. #13
    Senior Member mmcn49's Avatar
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    Don't know if you've resolved the issue and cannot offer specifics but here are some suggestions:

    You mentioned that the wiring was a "Rats Nest". Was the rats nest caused by the previous owner wiring in the alarm system? If so you really need to clean it up. When wiring every effort should be made to do it neatly. This all but forces you to do the installation correctly and makes troubleshooting much easier.

    If the P.O. used insulated, solder-less butt connectors they need to be replaced, (see links below).

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=1&*entries*=0
    http://www.te.com/usa-en/products/he...?tab=pgp-story

    If all else fails the next step is to measure voltage drops. Put a battery charger on the battery, turn the ignition on and using the wiring diagram pick a logical starting point and see where voltage disappears. Strongly suggest you get a pair of piercing probes, (see link below). These make a tiny pin hole in the wire's insulation which is easily sealed with liquid electrical tape.

    http://www.ebay.com/bhp/piercing-probe

  4. #14
    I did remove the entire alarm system and cleaned up all the wires (clean soldering and insulation). It helps a lot in term of tracing wires but Im still not able to find where the voltage drops. I did bypass the key switch so I know that this one isn't faulty.

    As stated above, the fact that the headlights are not coming on with key switch ON should be my starting point.

    I didnt know about those piercing probes, Im gonna see if I can source some locally, it looks like a good tool to add to my collection. That and a print out of the wiring diagram, 24inx36in!

  5. #15
    Senior Member mmcn49's Avatar
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    This style is easy to use and works well.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fully-Insula...-/231401474639

  6. #16
    I had a similar electrical problem- Do you have an aftermarket seat? Even if not, check the two main connections from the ECM and see how they might be rubbing on the seat. Pull the seat, bend the wires in the connector slightly (so they're more natural/upright than their normal uber-bent position) and start the bike. Several of these wires get 'crimped' inside their plastic, and you'd never guess they were damaged. Worth a shot at least. -D



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