Wer erzählt dir so eine Scheisse? Es gibt keinen TPS hard reset.
I would like to know what the original factory procedure was/is if anyone knows. I'm not looking for the typical user "twist 3 times" reset. I need to understand the zeroing and calibration that was used with an '08+ TPS with the epoxied set screw.
I know this is not typical knowledge.
S
Wer erzählt dir so eine Scheisse? Es gibt keinen TPS hard reset.
^^^
"Who told you such a sh1t? There is no TPS hardreset."
For those of us who don't know German.(almost everyone)
This is straight out of the factory service manual and to my knowledge there is no other way.
image.jpg
This is straight out of the factory service manual and to my knowledge there is no other way.
image.jpg
for some reason the pic of coming out blurry for me but it is the twist 3 times thing you don't want to hear. When done correctly your TPS should read 3.7 - 4.2 when plugged in to a program(ECMDroid,tuner pro,ect.)
what you are referencing by hard reset is using software to enter offsets for the read values rather than the 'learn' procedure way 'with the twist three times' procedure. The manual referenced procedure works fine, don't try to re-invent the wheel is what Ich is trying to get to in his own little nazi way. LOL
8213_10153728915635506_436984622_n.jpg
Last edited by mrlogix; 09-24-2015 at 06:00 AM.
Why do you feel you need a hard reset? Are you having other problems?
Maybe crush a Cialis and put it in the tank?
The post '08 'twist three times' lets the computer set the proper correction factor (+ or - of actual) where the range is, so the actual doesn't matter (as long as it's not pushing the TPS past it's physical limits). That's why there should never be a need for a "hard reset".
Are you asking about a factory 'zero' starting point? When I assemble a TB from scratch, I remove the idle screw, close the butterflies all the way completely, install the TPS and adjust until you just start to get an increase in it's reading, then epoxy the screw. That way you know the TPS isn't beyond it's range. Now you can set the minimum blade angle for idle and 'twist three times' to make the computer set the right correction factor.
The sensor has a bigger range than the throttle body so if you set idle, WOT will be fine. You want it's 'zero' to be near the bottom of the scale on the TPS, not on it's hard stop.
Last edited by Cooter; 09-24-2015 at 06:55 PM.
wow , ich fühle mich so geehrt, mit einem beleidigenden Antwort vom ehrwürdigen Ich zierte sein ! Twice even!!
Thank You Cooter, Yes, the factory "zero' starting point. That is just the info I am needing. I apologize for my syntax error.
I currently have the TB fully disassembled (injector cleaning(3% and 4% improvement in flow) intake seals(James,blue, w/lip and Hylomar used extensively on all potential air leak areas) and ready to go back together. I had done a test fit and the 8 bit value and the angle value were not what I thought they should be. At idle position the angle was reading 2.8 and the 8 bit tps/load was 22/23.
When the tps angle reads 3.7 to 4.2 like Bambam mentions above (ty) the tps 8 bit/load should be closer to 15, correct?
Also, just to be clear,
1) "close the butterfly all the way completely" means till it sticks a little bit in the bore?
2) "install the TPS" is just pressing the TPS sensor on to the shaft and bolting it tight? It has no play on the bolts.
3) "Now you can set the minimum blade angle for idle" Is this an additional step? Is this not what was done in the step, "adjust until you just start to get an increase in it's reading, then epoxy the screw"?
Thank you, Sean
Last edited by seancrete; 09-24-2015 at 09:14 PM.