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Thread: Can I ride without the front motor mount...?

  1. #1
    Junior Member zektiv's Avatar
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    Can I ride without the front motor mount...?

    Soooo... while installing a new clutch cable and torquing down the bolt that goes to the motor mount in the front (which is more like a vibration dampener than a mount, seems like...) the head of the bolt snapped right off. Pretty aggravating. I gotta get it down to a welder, and one of my buddies says to me "that's not really a motor mount, it's just for the vibrations, you can probably just ride down to the welder on it."

    The 'mount' I'm talking about is the bar that connects on one side to the engine and on the other to the wraparound bracket that holds the oil cooler. The bolt that attaches to the engine is snapped so the bar is just kind of 'there'. The welder is about 20 miles away (everything in South Florida is far as hell). What do you guys think? Can I just ride it there?

    I could trailer it but that is a far more involved process (i.e. getting the trailer, borrowing a buddy's hitched truck, etc.) Anyway, advice is much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Dellinger's Avatar
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    What are you welding?

    That is a tie bar and it ties the engine to the V-W-bracket, aka part of the motor mounting system. It is to stabilize the engine from side to side movement. Don't ride it...
    http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/websho...C-FFAD3EE1310F

    https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Motor...ler-Rental/MT/
    I was quoted $15 for a legit trailer. $30 and they will cover $5K in a wreck.
    Just saying...

  3. #3
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    I don't recall any bolts that are actually secured inside the v bar or w bracket(whatever it's called)... You might want to post a picture of the area in question.
    Also, if the bolt that broke is a bolt that runs through the v bracket, the bracket that holds the oil cooler and voltage regulator, just undo all the other bolts securing the bracket to the frame and you should have enough wiggle room to get a set of vise grips on the remainder of the bolt.
    Or use an extractor to remove that busted bolt.
    Or just drill the SOB out and retap the hole.
    I'm also at a loss as to why a welder is necessary.
    I'm not trying to be a jerkhole.
    Let us know if we are missing something.

  4. #4
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    I believe he is welding a nut to the broke bolt to try and back it out

  5. #5
    Junior Member zektiv's Avatar
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    Yep that's it - the front tie bar.

    The head broke off pretty deep in the hole and while I was in the process of using the torque wrench. An extractor didn't work (I tried two different ones I've got in my box) and I started to drill it out but it's slightly off center and started cutting into the edge of the hole so I stopped.. While trouble shooting with some friends it was suggested to go to a welder to attempt the weld-a-nut-to-it solution though I believe that it's beyond that solution at this point. They still believe it's worth taking to a welder who might still be able to remove the bolt and - possibly - fix the hole. I can retap it myself and use a time-sert or something.

    Maybe I'm approaching this wrong?

    The uhaul trailer is a good deal - $16 for the day I believe - and that'll be my solution for transport if transport becomes necessary. I'll find a buddy with a hitch. I was simply trying to save myself some time, as going to a buddy's to pick up his truck, getting to the uhaul, getting to where the bike is, transporting it, and then getting everything back is gonna be an all-day process. Rinse and repeat when I get the bike back. Just thought I might be able to limp it over there.

    So I should just drill the SOB out then and not bother with the welder? I'll post a photo of the mess I've made so far once I'm in front of a computer...

  6. #6
    Senior Member Dellinger's Avatar
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    I thought that was what you were welding, I didn't want to jump to conclusions. That's tough luck about the bolt. Don't rush anything when it comes to bikes. It'll end up costing 10 times more and the down time can grow beyond comprehension.
    http://www.madelectrical.com/worksho...en-bolts.shtml

  7. #7
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    It's the front tie bar... ...I understand what's going on now.
    Spot on Dellinger! Great link on extracting a busted bolt!
    Zektiv good luck bud! Let us know how things turn out.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Dellinger's Avatar
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    Your situation sucks if the bolt is broke below the surface. Most people never use a punch to stare the hole. If the bolt is real messed up from drilling and the bit went to one side Dremil makes a router bit that cuts pretty good for re flattening the broke end.
    http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessor....aspx?pid=9902

  9. #9
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Excellent advice on the dremmel. If you can get a good surface to center punch and redrill, use the smallest sharpest bit you can to start a pilot hole. Take your time and work your way up to the extractor slowly.
    If the bolt is real buggered up, any compatent TIG welder should be able to take care of you.
    Good luck

  10. #10
    Junior Member zektiv's Avatar
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    Great link, great info.

    So I tried drilling it out some more, and I ended up breaking it. As in breaking the cast iron post where the bolt was buried in. Literally broke a chunk off.

    I literally have no idea what to do now. Can a welder even fix this?



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