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Thread: XB12STT losing all electrical power before motor completely dying.

  1. #1
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    Angry XB12STT losing all electrical power before motor completely dying.

    I have a 2007 Buell Lightning XB12STT. The bike has about 11k miles on her.

    For some time I've been having electrical issues. When I ride a few minutes into it I notice my gauge cluster pings the engine light, then the rest of the cluster goes completely dead. The bike is still running but with no electric power. Shortly after the motor putters fo a dead stop. When I try to start her again I get the loud clicking noise of the starter not turning over cause of a dead battery. A few days later and the bike has no power whatsoever. LIke the battery is not even hooked up. So I charged it the other day, 12.4 volts and over 200 cca and I hooked it up and the bike roared to life. Well when my friend tested it with the volt meter the battery read around 11 volts while running and slowly decreased in voltage. A few mins later I had power but not enough to start the bike, more state noise. What is the issue anyone? I have no electrical prowess so I can't trouble shoot but I'm a decent mechanic on replacing stuff. Any insight as to what the issue is? Thank you

  2. #2
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Google search buell 77 connector.
    That's the first place I'd start investogating your charging issues.

  3. #3
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    11volts while running and slowly decreasing indicates your charging system is not working. There are two main components involved - the stator and voltage regulator. The other possible cause could be the old infamous '77' connector that connects the DC output of the voltage regulator to the rest of the system - this can range from a very subtle build-up of arcing residue that effectively insulates the pins that isn't obvious to look at to being seriously overheated/melted.
    Remove the R/H pulley cover and disconnect/inspect both connectors for the voltage regulator (there are plenty of downloadable service manuals that have very clear pictures that identify these).
    You will need a fully charged battery so get that charged up again and get your friend with the meter back.
    The stator can be checked for open/shorts with an ohm meter - the connector '46' that connects from the stator to the regulator has three pins, one for each phase of the stator. Each of these should read open circuit between the pin and ground and 0.1-0.3 ohms across each of the pin pairs 1-2, 2-3 & 3-1 (the coils for each phase in the stator).
    If these measure OK then start the bike with this plug left disconnected and measure the AC volts across each pin pair (1-2, 2-3 & 3-1). At 2000rpm the AC output should 32-40 volts AC (16-20 volts per 1000 rpm).
    If that is not then the stator could be bad - I would get that double-checked as it is a big job to replace. If it is OK then at least you don't have to get into the primary.
    Assuming the AC check is OK, switch the engine off, reconnect the stator to the regulator and reconnect the '77' connector for the DC output of the regulator.
    If you are really, really lucky a dirty '77' connector will usually clean up temporarily by simply unplugging/plugging the connector and you would see something like 13.4v with the engine running.
    If you still have 11volts and dropping and the '77' connector is not burnt then almost certainly a bad voltage regulator. Please note that you need the voltage regulator connected to the battery for the internal circuitry to operate so measuring for DC output with the regulator disconnected will not give a valid reading.
    You will probably find a lot of posts related to this and some are probably better explained then what I have done here quickly.
    Sorry Chicknstripn - both typing at the same time.
    Last edited by Rays; 02-02-2016 at 10:53 AM. Reason: spelling mistakes

  4. #4
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Rays no need to apologize. Your feedback is awesome. Excellent response

  5. #5
    Senior Member rchuff's Avatar
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    Ray and Chickn should have you in the right direction on where to start. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

  6. #6
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    The 77 connector had some melted plastic on one of the pins, cut the wires, saudered extra wire to the lead wires, heat shrinked it, got no power at all. I almost cried I was so pissed I thought I killed my bike somehow. Turns out the battery fuse blew, so I replaced every single fuse and she fired up right away! She is breathing fire now and all electrics stronger than ever. Steady around 14 volts while on. Thank you so much guys and this website too for all the fellow buell riders and support

  7. #7
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Yeee haw! Way to go Tex!
    You did good! That's what this whole thing is about!
    Good for you! Glad we could help

  8. #8
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    Be prepared though put aside the funds for a regulator and or stator. Its often enough the 77 connector can short and take out or stress those parts

  9. #9
    Senior Member rchuff's Avatar
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    Good to hear you got it running. Nice job.

  10. #10
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    note to texas and others: always remember this about buell ownership....
    1-the electrical systems are extremely simple in both design and diagnosing problems.
    2-buells are hell on batteries. when replacing buy quality such as deka, motobatt, big crank, H-D oem, interstate.
    3-familiarize yourself with all the cable/wire grounding points and check them along with both battery cables and battery terminal cleanliness and tightness when servicing your bike.
    4-familiarize yourself with sidestand and clutch lever safety switches...their locations...their purpose...their factory part #...their replacement procedure.
    5-familiarize yourself with the underside of the fuse-box lid schematic and the purpose and effect of each single blade fuse and relay. never leave home without a small tiny plastic packet of spare blade fuses and at least 1 relay. electrical malady just popped up????? THIS is the very first place to check.....always!



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