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Thread: XB9SX Low RPM Stuttering and Rough/No Idle

  1. #1
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    XB9SX Low RPM Stuttering and Rough/No Idle

    Had my 05 XB9SX a few months now and been loving it. I had an issue flare up the past couple days. When I'm below 3500 RPM and the bike is warm it runs really rough. I have to keep it revved or it will shut off on me. And when i'm cruising around 20-30 MPH its jerky. Once I'm on the highway or accelerating hard its like everything is fine. I checked for an intake leak because that's what it felt like and there's nothing. When its in neutral and i hold the throttle around 2k RPM it won't stay steady and will stutter and rise. When the bike is cool it idles fine and revs fine but once it starts to get warm it won't idle. I noticed the past week or so the fuel pump has been a lot quieter when it primes, it used to give a high whine for a second or so, now its barely audible. I'm not sure if that is it though because if the pump is bad how would it get fuel at high RPM? Could it be the regulator? If it is the fuel pump, do you guys recommend shelling out the 350$ or whatever for the whole assembly or just the pump? I'm going to order the ECMSPY cable because I wanted one down the line anyways. I figure I'll see if any codes pop and try resetting the TPS.

  2. #2
    Senior Member rchuff's Avatar
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    Tps reset would not hurt but would not rule out fuel pump just buy the pump do not need to buy whole assemble . you can find good post here and find pump on ebay or auto parts store. can't remember the walbor part number off hand but can find in the do it yourself mods. I would check your battery cables to make sure they are clean and tight too and all grounds. Sorry missed where you said when accelerating hard it is fine. Check battery cables and grounds then do Tps reset and see what happens.
    Last edited by rchuff; 02-14-2016 at 03:17 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member AZmidget91's Avatar
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    Before even just buying the pump, check the fuel pressure. I doubt it's fuel pump related.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I agree with AZ. If you are getting power at higher RPM's the pump should be ok. I could see a possible (but weird) pressure regulator problem though.

    Because you say it runs better when it's cold, It sounds like it's running lean when it loses the cold enrichment. Pull a plug and post a pic. While you are in there check the usual suspects like coil connections (and clean mounting bolts), intake seals, hoses, cables, etc. Are you running a stock ECM, muffler, filter?

    ECMDroid is free software that will let you datalog onto your Android device.

  5. #5
    Senior Member AZmidget91's Avatar
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    I happen to know a guy who sells the Bluetooth adapters to be able to use ECMDroid...me...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZmidget91 View Post
    Before even just buying the pump, check the fuel pressure. I doubt it's fuel pump related.
    I have a buddy bringing his pressure tester over tuesday. Definitely going to check the pressure before anything. I'll check the plugs/cables/coils when I go over tomorrow. Forgot to mention I checked my battery cables and grounds yesterday. They were all good. It does have the race ECM/Exhaust and I believe the airbox and filter are stock. I know the last owner played with the wiring a little, but it looks like its only the headlights and kickstand/clutch switch bypass. It felt similar to when my sportster had an intake leak but I did the check and found nothing. I'll report back what I figure out.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    You're stator and or voltage regulator might be on the way out. I believe there is a simple check that involves nothing more than a multi meter. I don't know the correct procedure but I know it's in the service manual.
    Buellmods.com for a service manual.
    All the previously mentioned checks are all good advice. Just start with all the simple stuff first.
    BTW Good on you for checking the intake seals. That would have been my first guess.
    Anyway; keep us posted

  8. #8
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    good suggestions above from the usual suspects and do this since you mentioned you're going to be using ecmspy:
    1-run ecmspy and check diagnostics for stored codes/historical faults.
    2-eliminate ignition as source of possible problem by installing fresh set of NGK DCPR9EIX spark plugs. when doing so carefully check plug wires and coil wiring harness connector.
    3- make certain air intake temp switch which is at rear of airbox base plate is connected properly.
    4-take a voltage reading with accurate volt meter/multi-meter. you want something in the vicinity of 13.2-14.4 DC volts @ approx. 2500rpm.
    5- with seat removed and good flashlight closely check the ecm and its connectors for any chafing or cracking at the wiring harness plug-in ports. start bike and hold throttle @ approx. 2000rpm. now wiggle the connectors. any change? if so ecm is cracked and junk.
    post back with results

  9. #9
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    Made it back into the shop. Double checked the cables and grounds. Checked the air intake temp sensor. I turned it on and the fuel pump didn't make any noise when it primed but it started great. Let it run to warm up and try to recreate the problem and it ran fine. I got it hot and it ran fine. I wiggled the ECM, fuze box, and a couple other connectors and it was fine. So I couldn't recreate it. I pulled the plugs to check and grab some new ones tomorrow. They look good, the rear plug is a hair lighter then the front plug but not in lean range by any means. It's charging at 14v so all good there. Im waiting on plug to run ECMSPY next week some time. I'm going to put the new plugs in and ride it this weekend to see if it comes back.

    I think the key switch and ignition relay are getting hot. I had to replace them before because they were ****ing up. Thinking the ignition relay may be part of the problem.

    http://imgur.com/iX4m8kw



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