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Thread: Buell XB high performance front isolator

  1. #1
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    Buell XB high performance front isolator

    Recently my Buell XB12Scg 2009 front isolator rubber insert had been broken at 12000 miles. I did some investigation and realized that the front isolator rubber failure is very common problem. At the same time it is very hard to find new front isolator, is is relatively expensive and no one sells them and it looks like motorcycle needs this part almost each second maintenance (each 10000 miles).

    So today I decided to design custom front isolator with replaceable rubber damper. I carefully took measurements from my old front isolator and created CAD model.

    Here is the new high performance custom front isolator.






    The new isolator consists of Front Engine Mount, Rubber Tubes, Bushing, Flange and Fasteners. Front Engine Mount is CNC machined aluminum part, I simplified this part as much as possible to decrease building difficulties, cost and machining time. Rubber tubes is just 1/2 diameter silicone, rubber or polyurethane rods you can by for cheap, you can use rubber tubes with different hardness to achieve the best performance. The rubber tubes are replaceable chip parts when you need to refresh it, you can buy different rubber tubes everywhere, I would recommend mcmaster.com . Bushing is lathe machined aluminum part. Flange is lathe machined or water-jet cut aluminum part. The fasteners are zinc plated steel socket screws from mcmaster.com.







    Here are the pros you will have with this front isolator:

    -No need to buy expensive and hard to find new front isolator each 10000-15000 miles to replace the old one, all you need is just to replace the cheap rubber tubes to maintain the front isolator;
    -No any unpredictable isolator broke in the middle of the road;
    -You can choose the rubber tube hardness and abrasion resistance to achieve better damping, feeling and performance;
    -No need to unscrew the front engine mount to maintain the new front isolator, no risks to damage the engine head while maintenance;
    -You can anodize the front engine mount bracket to achieve fancy custom color;
    -Wheelies lovers and stunt riders will love this isolator too, no need to replace the isolator after a couple hard wheelies.


    So if anyone interested to produce and test these parts I'm open to share it with you, I can finish all drawings and specifications. If you have a CNC milling machine you can produce and sell these parts and I'm ready to buy one. Anyone interested, any guys with hobby CNC equipment, 5-o dro?
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 02-29-2016 at 04:09 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    THAT is incredible. hoping this comes to fruition on a sorely needed upgraded part.

  3. #3
    What kind of cost would we be looking at? Amazing job, I too would buy one as insurance for when mine goes.

  4. #4
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    Nice job. I'd be interested in the cad design.
    Thanks, Matt

  5. #5
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    Thanks. I would say 100-150$ according similar complexity CNC machined motorcycle accessories cost you can find in the Internet.

  6. #6
    Senior Member neilrl79's Avatar
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    Is the isolator that prone to failure? Maybe it's just me not paying attention but i don't remember seeing a lot of " my isolator is bad" threads.

    That being said, a serviceable part is always better than one that needs to be thrown away when it wears out.

  7. #7
    Senior Member sparky300's Avatar
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    VERY cool. Any idea what the durometer is of the OEM isolator as a benchmark for choosing rubbers?

  8. #8
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    Contact twinmotocycles maybe

  9. #9
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    I've uploaded the CAD model in Google drive, so you can download the file and use it. Here is the link https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3I...ew?usp=sharing

    This is multibody CAD model in STEP 214 file format, so you can open this file using your favorite CAD program.

    -The Front Engine Mount hole for the clutch cable bracket is 1/4-20 through tapped hole.
    -The Front Engine Mount holes for the Fasteners are #8-32 blind tapped holes.
    -The fasteners are low-profile alloy steel socket head cap screws, zinc-plated, #8-32 thread, 1" long, http://www.mcmaster.com/#90665a115/=11bv7mz
    -The rubber tubes are 1/2" diameter rubber tubes you need to cut 1.5" length, so you need slightly more than 12 inches rubber rod. I would try abrasion resistance polyurethane rod 40A (medium soft) http://www.mcmaster.com/#8695k153/=11bv8lj
    -In addition you will need a Cushioning Washer to put it under the front isolator bolt http://www.mcmaster.com/#90131a107/=11bvsj8 , this is protective feature in case of excessive rubber wear.

    Actually I would try to combine the rubber rods with different hardness. The front and the back rubber rods are from very soft rubber to absorb back-forth vibration with bigger amplitude, let's say durometer shore A 30-40. The left and the right area rubber rods are from medium or hard rubber for better support the isolator in vertical and left-right directions, let's say durometer shore A 60-70. This is how the OEM front isolator designed, it is softer in back-forth direction and harder in vertical and left-right directions, the OEM rubber insert is not solid piece of rubber, it is specially shaped rubber.

    I'm not sure about the OEM part rubber hardness.

    Here is the part on the frame

    Last edited by TPEHAK; 03-26-2016 at 04:24 AM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    This would end up on my"need to buy"list for sure. Hope you can make er happen!



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