Reply With QuoteQuestion one. You changed the battery and installed a new one?
Question two. Did you charge and check the new battery.
New is not necessarily good.
Had problems with the bike not starting it always seem to, but it sounded weak. I changed the battery and I would like to know what my options are from here. I checked the ground and it looks clean....so any input is great!
Question one. You changed the battery and installed a new one?
Question two. Did you charge and check the new battery.
New is not necessarily good.
had battery tested too.Originally Posted by Tripleted
brand of battery? anything under 200 CCA's typically causes cranking issues. and if it's chinese be advised their CCA ratings are all nonsense.
I agree on double checking the 'new' battery.
Everyone is saying the battery, because it's either the battery (98% of the time it's cheap, not rated high enough, not connected well enough...), wiring (1% bad connection or contacts in the starter relay), or the starter (1% of the time, it's the brushes or an armature clogged with brush material). That's all I can think of for a lazy starter.
BTW, when your local auto parts store "checks the battery" they plug in a cute little auto tester that calculates the draw (at about 3 amps). What you need is an old school tester like this:
The giveaway is the thick jumper cable looking leads. These test actualdraw at 50+amps. Hold the load button for 10 seconds and look for the voltage to stay higher than 9.6V.
Thanks it is possibly both a Chinese battery and it was tested at autozone. They gave it 100%nrating, could have tried to sell me something, gave me a couple extras to improve the connection. Very helpful!
Current battery is the bike master recommended for buell. 14amps doesn't show cca#
let's assume the battery is fully charged and reasonably new. the simplest way to eliminate it from the equation OR identify it as the culprit is to do the below.....after insuring that your cable ends are clean and tight and that the ends are securely fastened to the factory positive and negative cables. it is rare but occasionally the cable ends start to fray where they go into the cable terminal ends and cause loss of voltage flow:
1-get a car or garden tractor battery that is fully charged. ideally you have it out of the vehicle. just a suggestion.
2-jump from this battery to your ulysses battery.
3-red run switch off...ignition switch to on...red run switch to on...wait for CEL to extinguish...now try and start? success? it is your bikemaster battery.
What is an ideal battery and how many cold cranking amps should it put out?
you want quality as XB's notoriously hell on batteries. i have no experience whatsoever with lithium-ions so cannot recommend them. it should be AGM construction and minimum of 200 CCA's. the factory OEM installed battery in all XB's was originally manufactured by Deka at their plant here in PA about an hour or so northeast of me and branded with H-D logo and stickers. Deka had and continues to have the contract for H-D/Buell and builds world-class batteries marketed under Deka, Big Crank, a few other names. the last thing the factory or franchised dealerships want during the warranty period are repetitious battery problems so you know a quality unit is factory installed. the link below will take you to my personal favorite. i've tried probably 10 assorted brands of batteries in XB's and to this day the one below IMO is the finest and priced right.
http://www.batterymart.com/c-buell-x...c-battery.html
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