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Thread: In over my head...Help!

  1. #11
    Inactive
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    AmishLand, PA.
    Posts
    7,526
    The front Exhaust mount on the bottom of the engine was completely missing. I figure the weight of the pipe plus all of the extra vibration was causing the studs to snap.

    the front exhaust mount is attached to a dedicated mounting ear cast into the engine case assembly via a very long 3/16th inch bolt and captive locking nut. during the life of your bike some ham-fisted type clueless in the art of buells either snapped it or cracked it. it then worked itself loose, fell out and took the bracket and front weight of the muffler with it. hence your broken header attachment studs. rear muffler mount entirely different and held in place by 2 large bolts threaded into the motor case.

    can the air filter go bad just sitting on the work bench?

    no. it was at the end of its service life before it hit the bench.



    3) Do I need to track down a cable and plug it in to a computer? If it's electrical I may be at a loss but it won't stop me from trying

    cable and diagnostics program (like ecmspy ie.) only necessary if your check engine light (CEL) is activated.....you want to run diagnostics....you want to clear CEL codes....you want to re-map the ecm....you want to reset your TPS sensor.

    in all probability your reassembly is incorrect. double check your intake-side work as follows:
    1-the large rubber air intake horn affixes to the top of the throttle body with a very large spring clamp and ties the throttle body together with the air system base plate. it absolutely must be installed correctly. installed correctly means the bottom of it is fully seated against the top of the throtttle body. you can feel it fully seating if done correctly. the large spring clamp MUST be installed.
    2-the upper lip of the air intake horn is what attaches to the air intake base plate....not the entire top part of the air intake horn....just the upper lip.
    3-base plate attaches to frame via 4 identical torx screws. they are exactly the same screws used to attach front fender to fork legs but are 1/8th inch longer. IAT SENSOR affixed to base plate at 4 o'clock position and plugs into harness. it must be plugged in. air filter sits in base plate....air box lid affixes to base plate and corresponding gasket with captive plastic snaps. air box cover goes atop all this. that's the correct order and procedure. nothing else will work.

    lastly......here's the simplest trouble-shooting procedure to narrow down what and where the problem might be: assuming here that your CEL is not activated run the motor if possible until same symptom occurs again. shut it off and remove the front spark plug which is by far the simplest. does it appear black and sooty with carbon? if so you have an air-flow problem. is the white porcelain that surrounds the center electrode bright white and pristine appearing? you have a fuel delivery problem.
    Last edited by user_deleted; 04-15-2016 at 09:38 AM.

  2. #12
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    29
    Hey guys! Thanks for the help. It was the rubber throttle body horn.

    Here's the bike torn apart.
    IMG_1062.jpg
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    All of the attempts
    IMG_1066.jpg

    Successful removal!
    IMG_1067.jpg

  3. #13
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    29
    Used a little WD40 while the oil dripped.

    IMG_1082.jpg
    IMG_1083.jpg
    IMG_1086.jpg

  4. #14
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    29
    All shined up and fixed thanks to you guys!
    IMG_1089.jpg
    IMG_1090.jpg

  5. #15
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    29
    I would like to give a huge shout out to you guys for the support! You replied and solved my issue by the end of the day...I would have never thought about checking that piece of rubber. Ran like a top when put on correctly...here I figured it was going to be something really serious.

    Now all I need is a front tire and I'm ready for a 4000 mi moto camping trip from NE North Dakota to San Diego in the end of June!

  6. #16
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    7,948
    Well, it was you that did a fine job.

    Sounds like a kick ass trip, I should be riding from Los Angeles to Pikes Peak about the same time! I WISH I could ride my CR that long per day, so I'll find a Lightning to use...

  7. #17
    Senior Member ToneTheMoan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    LONDON ENGLAND
    Posts
    1,967
    Well done mate! and that is all useful knowledge gained by doing that which will stand you in good stead for your road trip! ENJOY!! Nice bike by the way!

  8. #18
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    29
    That sounds like fun! I'm still debating weather I should stay south or take the coastal highway north to WA and head East from there. This will be a first trip but I figure go big or go home.

    Do you have any experience riding in either of those areas that time of year? I would have around 8 days to get home so time is on my side but idk if the northern route will still be cold that time of year.



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