Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: How to polish marks from instrument cluster face

  1. #11
    Senior Member ToneTheMoan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    LONDON ENGLAND
    Posts
    1,967
    Yeah thanks mate i have a feeling the black rotors are not going to be all they are cracked up to be but time will tell eh! lol The plastic film is a bit of a long shot so i am glad you are miles away just incase it doesnt work! ha ha its seemed like a good idea at the time but i had been hitting the diet coke hard that day and they say that it rots your brain so i should be safe then!! Hope you dont mind when i take the piss its just i love the Aussie sense of humour!

  2. #12
    Member au-rora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    92
    Tone, go ahead, take the pi$$ as much as you want... may be good for any possible prostate issues?
    Maybe any possible brain rot is caused by what you use to dilute your diet coke?
    Have you tried a rotor soak in the same formula? You know... to darken it a bit. But don't leave it overnight mate - the bleedin' rotor might be gone by morning!! Haha

  3. #13
    Senior Member ToneTheMoan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    LONDON ENGLAND
    Posts
    1,967
    Ha ha ha i know what you mean have you seen what it does to coins! now i wonder if thats good for a humans belly, i am thinking that i am slowly embalming myself, hey i could be the world`s only living mummy!! ha ha ha

  4. #14
    Member au-rora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    92
    Mate, I guess the worse case would be that you may end up being a perfect colour match to your new rotors. Black Beauty & rider Black Mummy! haha

  5. #15
    Member au-rora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    92
    Back to the marks on the instrument face...
    This is how I can best describe what's on there - when adhesive tape has been stuck to a surface for quite a while and is then peeled off, it may leave some patches of hard dry crusty adhesive residue. Doesn't wash off, wipe off, so defies basic simple non-harsh cleaning methods. Just bloody stays there!! That's just like what's on the dash face of the CR. I have not tried any chemical products to try removing it - too scared that an adverse chemical reaction may permanently damage the lens. And have not as yet resorted to plastic polishing; although that can remain in the background as my "Plan B". My gut feeling is that the right product will penetrate it so it can then be simply wiped off, but not damage the lens. But what chemical cleaning or solvent product do I try? Bit of a gamble! One of my all round best methods of cleaning any adhesive residue off any tough surface is: 1. Paper towel with eucalyptus oil wiped over it, then 2. paper towel with methylated spirits wiped over it and then keep alternating back and forth between 1 & 2 and in no time the adhesive residue is gone and the metho' used last leaves it totally clean and free of anything undesirable. Yep, squeaky clean! So I guess to see if that method is safe on the CR dash lens, I'd better do a micro spot test in one of the lower lens corners. If it turns out to be non-damaging, I think that I may be able to chemically get rid of these (what I suspect is) tape adhesive residue patches. Will let you know how it goes... stay tuned.

  6. #16
    Senior Member ToneTheMoan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    LONDON ENGLAND
    Posts
    1,967
    I hope you find something soon and i was thinking methylated spirit like you mentioned or maybe rubbing alcohol? i would take the instruments apart and try a bit of the plastic that doesnt show to be on the safe side? Good luck!

  7. #17
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    10,900
    Yuck. Electrical tape adhesive is nasty stuff. It's super goopy until it burns into the plastic leaving a foggy mark. I've seen it do that on glass!

  8. #18
    Member au-rora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    92
    Update.
    Took a punt and had a shot at this. Used this Meguiar's PlastX with some dry toweling - result is excellent.

    P1080670a.jpg

    Put a couple of drops onto the toweling, and applied it over the dash face (clear lens) in a small area only in a swirling motion. When it seemed like that shot had achieved its best, used some clean toweling and buffed any residue off. Repeated the same procedure until the whole lens had been polished with all marks of concern well and truly gone. I did this carefully to avoid the need to clean up any excess slop. So, it worked a treat! Thank you guys for your thoughts, advice, humour & suggestions! Great result! Will take a shot of the result in day light hours and post it.
    Last edited by au-rora; 04-27-2016 at 06:51 AM.

  9. #19
    Senior Member ToneTheMoan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    LONDON ENGLAND
    Posts
    1,967
    Brilliant well done mate! do you know if its suitable for coloured plastic or is it just for clear lens type plastic?

  10. #20
    Member au-rora's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    92
    Thanks Tone.
    Clear plastics only! Because it says:
    "Clear plastic cleaner & polish. Removes cloudiness, yellowing, oxidation & fine scratches. Also safe on clear plastic items, such as: plexiglass, brake lights, plastic convertible windows, motorcycle windscreens, helmet faceshields, boat windows, bug deflectors & CD's".
    So I'd say NO for Buell coloured plastics (that is... solid colour and transluscent colour panels).
    Hope to post a shot tomorrow of the dash lens...



Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •