Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: 2000 Buell X1 Electrical Mystery

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    6

    2000 Buell X1 Electrical Mystery

    Hey helpful, intelligent, forum posters!

    I just moved to California with my 2000 X1 lightning. I put it on a moving truck and said goodbye to it for three weeks while it was in the hands of "professional" movers. When all my stuff arrived I rolled the Buell out of the truck and was happy to see it made it apparently unscathed. When I went to start it just seconds later, however, is the interesting part.

    I turned the key, had it in neutral and hit the ignition button and it cranked for a second or two, then made a sort of muffled back-fire or some kind of puff or popping noise. I hit the ignition again and now NOTHING. Headlight works, signals, I hear fuel pump priming, but when I hit the yellow button, nothing.

    some things you should know, maybe: It has a Power Commander ECM and I bypassed the kickstand sensor, both were years ago and never had problems. I thought the Bank angle sensor, maybe the movers dropped it but didn't cause any cosmetic damage can't figure it out. Can anyone help?! I wanna ride in Cali!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    7,948
    There really isn't enough info there to make an educated guess, so I'll just make a regular guess. I doubt it's an issue with the movers.

    Double check your starting procedure, key on, run switch on, in neutral, check your kickstand bypass, etc. Do the dash lights dim when you press the button? Do the needles sweep?

    If that doesn't do it, open your fuse box and look for a burned fuse.

    If that doesn't do it, read your manual. The starter 'crank' circuit is an easy one to diagnose yourself with a test light. The wires go next to the steering neck which is a know spot for wire chaffing and breaking, try to hold the yellow button while turning the handlebars left and right.

    The power commander doesn't have anything to do with the cranking circuit.

  3. #3
    Inactive
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    AmishLand, PA.
    Posts
    7,526
    thoroughly inspect the battery cables and terminals for cleanliness and tightness then eliminate the battery as the source of your problem by jumping the bike with a known good battery from a vehicle that is NOT running. starts now? it's your battery. does NOT start now? post back with results.

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    16
    If you don't have a manual I can email you one in PDF form.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    6
    Cooter you have some recommendations that I still need to try. Here is what I've done so far:

    I have one of those meters with the red and black prongs. measures volts and ohms and ****. I sorta know how to use it. the battery is putting out 13'ish volts (DC). The light does not dim when pushing the ignition. I have a manual and through using it did the following: I pulled out the starter relay (bottom?) and checked terminal 86, I believe, with the meter, put red prong into terminal 86 and grounded the other and pushed the button. I think I should be getting like 12 volts or so but the meter only goes from .001 to like .1 when I push the button, weird. I checked the kickstand bypass and it's fine. I checked the relays, Ignition and starter, the TOP relay clicks when I flip the red switch down, the killswitch? I checked the fuses, I had some blown and replaced them, also weird that everything seemed to work except the whole "starting" thing. I was thinking I found the problem, but it did the same.

    Oh and I tried jumping it first from my car, didn't do it. I'm also doing all this in a parking garage so It's a pain in the junk.

    So I'm PRETTY sure that it is NOT the battery, NOT the kickstand, and NOT the fuses or the relays. I tried wiggling the bars but not while pushing the ignition so I need to try that, I'll be damned if that works. I'll report back guys. thanks for the replies.

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    6
    I read somewhere about the ignition switches liking to go bad. If this were the case would my headlights and everything else still come on. The wires just behind the ignition switch, where I put the key to start the bike, get hot. Not crazy hot, but definitely hot.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2,408
    Where in CA?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    7,948
    It sounds like you have electricity, with the fuel pump priming, and the needles sweeping, and the relay click when you turn on the engine kill switch.

    You may have isolated the problem when you checked the starter relay terminal. You checked 86, I can't remember if its 86 or maybe 85 so check that. You can also check the yellow start switch as well (the other end of that same circuit). Firstly, prep it to start and press the yellow button firmly, even wiggle it around with your thumb, maybe theres some corrosion on the switch terminals in the housing.

    Next, take off that switch housing. I can show you where to check to see either a) there's no supply voltage to that switch or b) theres no contact through the switch. It will eliminate a lot of possibilities right away.

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    6
    San Diego, Crash. Haven't taken off the switch housing yet. Will report back, probably tomorrow. Thanks again.

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    6
    IMG_3636.jpgI tried to attach a pic of a flow chart for the starter troubleshooting. I've followed the flow to the right labeled "nothing clicks". I'll tell you my procedure, I pulled out the bottom relay( starter relay) and plugged my red prong into it's terminal 86 best that I could, pretty firmly. Then I ground the other prong onto a confirmed ground. As I said before, I get a change when I push the button from about .001 to .1 and yes my tester is in DC and set to Volts. I'm not sure what to make of this. The chart says check for "battery voltage" does .1 volts count?

    I did disassemble my switch and put my red prong onto the BK/R (black & red) wire. pretty much the same story it went from like .03 to .3'ish when I push the ignition. I'm not sure what to make of the low voltage. I'm inclined to think I should be getting 12. Again the battery is fine I've checked it, charged it, and rechecked it.

    Now I'm getting curious about the other portion of this flow chart starting with "Relay Clicks" My starter relay doesn't click but my ignition relay does, and it doesn't specify. So I checked the Solenoid terminals (I think). Whether I'm pushing the button or not I'm getting 12 volts where the positive lead from the battery comes in to the solenoid (seems like a DUH). On the other solenoid terminal I'm not getting 12.

    I'm in over my head....



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •