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Thread: Buell plastic scratch removal

  1. #21
    Senior Member AZmidget91's Avatar
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    No, that started in 07? Could be wrong on the year...
    PM me for Bluetooth info!
    Facebook.com/BuellBluetooth

  2. #22
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Ya. If it's taking forever to sand out the flaws, don't be afraid to go with a lower grit!
    Get the flaws out quick, then do the steps to polish. Bueno!

  3. #23
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    So do you just sand around the Buell Decals or do you have to remove those? What do you use to reattach them if you do have to remove them?

  4. #24
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Cooter did a great write up !!!! I did just about what Cooter spelled out , I finished up with 1500 grit wet then polished with jewelers buff compound, Took the X off a city cover there were a few deep glue gouges to sand out,

    air cover_722.jpgair cover1_723.jpg
    Last edited by Silverrider; 06-19-2017 at 10:20 PM.

  5. #25
    Senior Member midway's Avatar
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    Thank you for this detailed tutorial Cooter. I have some scratched plastics but most need only be cleaned and prepped for primer. You are an expert polisher do you have a portion of your sanding process that one could stop and hand over to the painter for the base prime? I would like to take a load off the cost and do some of this myself with an extra set of skins in preparation for paint. Thanks again for your time and presentation here... excellent!

  6. #26
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    For paint, I'd just use a DA sander and 240 grit then hand it to them. It's not like the parts will have dents! Buellybagger would know way more than me about paint though.

  7. #27
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    For paint, I'd just use a DA sander and 240 grit then hand it to them. It's not like the parts will have dents! Buellybagger would know way more than me about paint though.
    Great thread cooter! If anyone doesn't already believe the merit of his sanding and buffing procedure it gets a big from a professional painter.


    For anyone wanting to prep for paint: just like when preparing to polish the parts, deep imperfections may require going to a lower grit and working your way back up. I would say for most paint systems that anything more coarse than 600 grit and a red scotch brite for prepping will require a coat of primer, then sand , then sealer or base (depending on paint system). plastics tend to get "furry" spots with coarser sanding, especially if you're lazy like me and use a DA so i usually just prep the parts for primer so I've got a nice uniform and most importantly "adhered" surface to apply paint to. But as with anything there are a million and one "right" ways to do things. So if you're paying a pro to do it, let them be your guide, they might do it a bit different than i do!

    Again great buffing thread Cooter!!CHEERS!

    EDIT: yep 240 would be fine for primer, i go to 320, tends to leave less fuzzies. Also hand sanding instead of power will leave less fuzzy spots...
    Last edited by BuellyBagger; 07-27-2017 at 01:01 PM.

  8. #28
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    I did this on my black "flyscreen" on my ulyses (windscreen snaps to this) and spent 2 days sanding it. Ended with using soapy water and 2000 grit wet/dry paper. Get all done and it still has dull appearance and is not shiny. Is that to be expected?

    I tried clearcoating it with 3 different brands, all of them did this weird thing where they would kind of bead up and then it looked like ****. Prior to clearcoating, I washed it with a rag and soap then rinsed it. Then once dry I clearcoated it. But even if I do VERY light coats, it still gets a pebbled look from it reacting weird with the plastic.

  9. #29
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Thanks for the kudos Buelly! I know you're a pro-painter and that means a lot

    cknapp: If you want it glossy you are so close!

    Since the screen is now wet-sanded with 2000 thats great! It will still be dull at that point. All you need to do now is follow the polishing instructions above ^^^^ and it will be as glossy as brand new

    OR

    If you'd rather paint it (clear coat is painting), then re-sand the whole thing with 600 to give the paint something to 'grip' to and then you can paint it with clear coat. Several light coats is the way to go.
    Last edited by Cooter; 07-27-2017 at 04:09 PM.

  10. #30
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    wouldn't clear directly on the plastic. Buff it if you're down to 2000.



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