\Originally Posted by Forest Bueller
you have a few maladies going on there. #1-if the ignition switch is OFF nothing else including red run switches or sidestand safety switches matter. if moving the bike activates the gauge cluster you have a main wiring harness short and in all probability it is behind the plastic steering neck protector guard. #2- if the bike shuts off while riding down the road it is typically loss of electrical power associated with either a bad main ground attachment point....faulty ignition relay.... faulty ignition switch....faulty red run switch....or faulty ecm. your relays are inside your fuse box and schematic of same on fuse box lid. i've posted on here a bazillion times where they are available on the cheap and cross references. with bike warm and idling and seat removed wiggle the 2 main wire clusters that plug into the ecm and also the tap test as shaughn mentioned above. then wiggle the right handlebar switch gear wiring harness at the base of the switchgear housing to test the red run switch. then lightly wiggle the key in the ignition switch. any change in engine tone or shut-down during these suggested test will identify the culprit. lastly...take a look at several of my posts in the past few weeks. in them you will find all your ground wires identified...where they're located....relay cross references....ecm fault code accessing....many easy trouble shooting steps directly related to your ailments.
I have the blocks with the bike and it came to me with the low seat on it only. Like many on the forums, I believed the low seat was pressing on the ECM causing a break in the connection. However, the wiring issues now seem more probable. Thanks for the input.
Thank you Lunaticfringe. Today will be discovery day for all the possible causes.
my pleasure forest. concentrate specifically on the front of your bike before proceeding elsewhere. simplest place to start is multiple "wiggle tests" at front of bike with switch on.
Multiple wiggle tests... haha. You're a naughty, naughty, boy!
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Been checking the wiring and grounds all morning and found no breaks or rub spots. However when I took the Fly Screen off in the process there are these two blue cellophane wrapped things that look like small Harddrives. They are bolted to the inside of the yellow portion very loosely and then duct taped over the crude mounts. I could not find these in the Service Manual but then don't know what they are and do they belomg there. From all the crude wiring and many zip ties it looks as though someone has converted to HID, but I really don't know. Moving the handlebars does nothing to dash lights or running lights and ignition is on. Haven't been able to take it out yet as it is gutted now, but the headlights still come on and repeatedly when the Ign is on and the bike not running.
They are probably the ballasts for the HID lights.there are these two blue cellophane wrapped things that look like small Harddrives
forest: that is a hell of a mess and what i'd call a "start from scratch" situation. see below for correct headlight wiring. i would start there and see what you have.
wiring for headlight plug to plug harness:
orange to orange..............orange is switched only positive
white to white.................white is high beam on only
yellow to yellow.................yellow is low beam on only
black to black..................is negative ground
Ya it's a pretty cheesy HID ballast install. If you don't like the HID's, just take out the bulbs and unplug the ballast. You'll be left with the factory headlight connectors that attach to the back of regular headlight bulbs.
The rest of it looks factory to me?
If you are saying the headlights come on and off while you are moving stuff around... There's a problem.
It should be running while you are wiggling stuff, because that's the symptom. You could be losing power to the fuel pump, or ignition, and not notice when it's just ignition on, engine off.
I spent the day bent over the cluster of odd wires under the flyscreen and found, disconnected, cleaned and reset every ground I could locate. Nothing visually loose or corroded. The mess for the HID's is terrible. I don't see so well anymore at night and just don't drive so would just as well take them off and return to stock, if I knew what has been grafted in and isn't OEM. There are grommets and unattached plugs everywhere. Ignition switch was tight and bundled and did not wiggle or cause any cut-out. At the end of the day with a serious backache I was able to take it for a quickie 8 miles ride and frankly it seem to run great with no shut off or CEL. Going to try again today to see how far I can get.
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