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Thread: Motor just stops running

  1. #11
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Sounds like something in your kill switch wiring is a miss. I'd take that apart and check out the wiring.
    I would also check every bit of wiring I could for a short. Sounds like something is randomly shorting out and causing the bike to die.

  2. #12
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    Sorry for not getting back so soon I don't get out much and I don't like to break down. I took all the grounds off cleaned and retorqued .took the kill switchthe off checked the continuity it was fine. I hooked it up to ecmdroid and went riding in 30 minutes the motor cut off the Rpms and speedo still working I cycled the kill switch the speedo did the needle sweep the motor started running again as if nothing had happend. I took it out again this time the acc fuse blew the motor still ran and I made it home still puzzled any help would be awesome thanks

  3. #13
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danoxb View Post
    Sorry for not getting back so soon I don't get out much and I don't like to break down. I took all the grounds off cleaned and retorqued .took the kill switchthe off checked the continuity it was fine. I hooked it up to ecmdroid and went riding in 30 minutes the motor cut off the Rpms and speedo still working I cycled the kill switch the speedo did the needle sweep the motor started running again as if nothing had happend. I took it out again this time the acc fuse blew the motor still ran and I made it home still puzzled any help would be awesome thanks
    seperate non-related issues. your accessory fuse only responsible for tail light bulb, license plate bulb, horn, signal flasher system. if that particular fuse fails when turning on key it is a wiring short. if it fails when activating turn signals it is bad flasher relay or signal assembly wire short....if fails when activating horn it is either faulty horn assembly or the wiring loom feeding horn which can rub thru and ground to horn bracket. if it fails simply riding down the road, it is a wiring short. THIS: the continued cycling of the red run switch to bring the bike back to life not recommended. it simply re-energizes both the ignition relay and fuel pump system. remove and carefully inspect the ecm/key switch/ignition fuses. sadly you may have an ecm on the way to death-row.

  4. #14
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    I checked all the fuses all are good the relays seemed hot is that normal? I changed the ignition relay with a BWD R3146 from car quest I think it's a 20 amp. So you think I need to replace the ecm? Where is the best place to get one?

  5. #15
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Check the for sale section of the forum.

  6. #16
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    I got a new ecm from ids relocate it because the seat was putting pressure on the connection on the old ecu it had a little crack between the plug gray port and box. Test drove the bike and sure enough the problem was still there. Went back to the computer to read more found threads about the bank angle sensor how it will trigger and you have to cycle kill switch to start the motor running so I unplugged the bank angle sensor under the tail took the bike out and the problem is gone now I'm getting a check engine light. I wonder why it never came on when I was having the problem?

  7. #17
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    You are getting the CEL because you unplugged a sensor.

  8. #18
    Senior Member ToneTheMoan's Avatar
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    with the IDS ecm it will run with or without the bank angle sensor without throwing a code it is removable for racing etc same with the sidestand cut out if that helps?

  9. #19
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    You can also use ECMDroid (free) to disable the cel for those sensors.

  10. #20
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    BAS sensor? turn that off in spy and see if issue is still there



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