Right side fork leg need input

[lowkey]

your question regarding 2007 ulysses/stt tube oil level....it is:
Oil Level 172 mm from top with fork fully compressed......+ or - about 8 mm
no special tools needed as i don't consider a metric ruler "special".

Still confused on oil levels as you quote ulysses/stt being the same. It's my understanding the fork travel is something in between the SS and Ulysses? My left fork uncompressed from dust cover seal lip to bottom of fork shaft is 160mm or 6.299", I've found these as a resource.

2007 STT = 5.63 inches (143 mm)
http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/...t-ar15939.html

2008 SS = 4.72 in. (119.89 mm) No listing for 2007 model
http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/...s-ar53736.html

2008 Ulysses X = 6.51 in. (165.35 mm) No listing for 2007 model
http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/...x-ar53810.html

2008 Ulysses XT = 4.9 in. No exact spec sheet like the other listings
http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/...t-ar50961.html

So I'm thinking of just popping off the cap of the left leg and with it standing vertical and measure the depth since it has never leaked a drop but who knows if it was set right in the first place. Hopefully it is in the ballpark of 172mm from the top but I was thinking of not pulling the spring to measure and I assume that is with spring removed height right? While I've got the left one opened up I think I'll replace the oil for piece of mind they are the same brand and weight, I'm about 75% sure he said it was Maxima 10wt so that is what I'll be putting in.

[lowkey]

Alright that idea of just making a dip stick from the left fork leg didn't work because with the spring and tube still in I can't see the oil level. I watched the two videos on doing the forks on youtube, one was the ulysses and the other the SCG. Anyway my fork seems to be different because there isn't a snap ring on/under the blue top adjuster, can't figure how to separate that... when I pull down the spacer tube to slip in a 17mm it must be a smaller size than that because it isn't catching on any keyed section. When I peer into the two holes for the special tool it looks like a 14 or 15mm 6 sided nut and not just a keyed shaft like the videos state. So stuck with blue adjuster knob on the silver cap portion of disassembly.





No snap ring on these, that "washer" goes all the way around...

When I try and back off the blue portion from the silver cap it just spins when loosening but it will stop if I tighten it up never rising like it is threaded though.

[lowkey]

Ok looks like for my bike the whole top cap assembly comes off in one piece, but yeah it was both a 17mm and 14mm to separate this whole assembly.






I dug up a 2008 manual that covers all XB's, here it says 118mm from the top, though I don't know if they are talking from the aluminum outer tube that clamps to the triples or the "outer" steel tube that sits 5mm just inside of that tube from the diagram it appears they mean this steel tube...

[lowkey]

Got it all back together, a couple tricks were making a dip stick out of a metal coat hanger at 118mm and hanging it on the inner sleeve just inside the aluminum outer tube, the other was use what was left to catch the damper assembly and pull it up through the preload tube to re-attach the damper rod/top cap portion. I'm still unsure why exactly my preload adjusters are different from the manual and all other info I've seen so far, like I stated they do not rise or lower so the # of lines stated for preload are irrelevant as of right now. I weigh 180-185 geared up so backed them out 3 full rotations counter clock wise from full stop clockwise for right now, any input? The lower blue adjuster on the fork leg does nothing right? Just the inner flat blade adjuster for compression.