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Thread: trouble getting back in to neutral 2009 xb9sx

  1. #1
    Member JonDredd's Avatar
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    trouble getting back in to neutral 2009 xb9sx

    I have a used 2009 xb9sx I picked up last year. I had not gotten a chance to ride it much before winter, but am getting it out more often now and I have noticed issues getting it back to neutral, usually when at a complete stop. I try to lightly pop it up from 1st, but at times it has stronger resistance, and only goes to 2nd. going back down skips neutral too. I have ridden away for a short distance to try it again, and it will work again. It didn't bother me too much because it was a rare occurrence.

    Over the last week or so, it has become much more frequent and I have had more trouble getting it to work again. I have at times resulted to going to neutral while still going, and rolling to a stop when I am in an area where I can do so.

    Any Ideas?

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    Have you checked your clutch adjustment?

  3. #3
    Member JonDredd's Avatar
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    no, but I did see a youtube tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcXJ...LogdYb&index=9
    and it looks simple enough, as long as it's that easy. is there any other things to look out for or note that this video doesn't show?
    After reading some more, it seems like a good idea to have it upright on a stand before I attempt this.
    Last edited by JonDredd; 06-04-2016 at 08:19 PM.

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    it does not have to be on a stand. do the below and if done properly it will shift normally and neutral right there for the asking. if you have procedural questions post back up and i'll walk you thru it.
    1-on the primary cover remove top inspection cover and derby cover. top 2 torx....derby 3 torx.
    2-optional but i would drain the primary and install fresh 20-50 amsoil cycle oil or something similar...wet clutch compatible.
    3-slide clutch cable rubber gaitor vertically exposing adjustment barrel.
    4-while the fluid is draining do NOT touch anything inside the primary. go to the barrel...loosen the 9/16th jam nut...then turn adjustment barrel clockwise till you have tons of slop at the clutch lever.
    5-look in derby cover opening. remove hex nut and lock plate which exposes slotted screw. turn screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE till light tension felt. stop. turn screw CLOCKWISE 1/2 turn. replace locking assembly, then derby cover making sure slotted screw does NOT move..
    6-replace primary/trans fluid.
    7. now adjust clutch cable as per specs till you have 1/8th freeplay between lever and perch end. lock jam nut...slide gaitor down into original position.
    8-adjust primary drive chain as per manual.
    the above will yield great shifting, smooth lever action, and eliminate neutral finding issues....if done properly of course.

  5. #5
    Member JonDredd's Avatar
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    thanks!!

    So you use 20-50 amsoil for the primary? Do you use it for motor oil too? Do I need 2 different lubricants?

    It will be a few days before I can get to it, but I will let you know if I have any other questions
    Last edited by JonDredd; 06-05-2016 at 02:10 AM. Reason: found a quick question about preferred fluids

  6. #6
    Senior Member Lusiphur's Avatar
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    Yup
    You can use v-twin 20w50 for both the engine and the primary. Makes life simple
    Jack-O-Lantern
    2006 Buell XBRS LightningBolt
    http://www.buellxb.com/forum/album.php?albumid=129

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    Quote Originally Posted by JonDredd View Post
    thanks!!

    So you use 20-50 amsoil for the primary? Do you use it for motor oil too? Do I need 2 different lubricants?

    It will be a few days before I can get to it, but I will let you know if I have any other questions
    if you're consistently riding in temps at 50 degrees and above then run amsoil 20-50 cycle oil in the primary.....1 US quart
    you can run any JASO-MA approved 20-50 in the primary but i prefer amsoil and i've tried most all of them. unless you're racing your XB, have installed a nitrous system or abusing the hell out of it then run any available conventional 20-50 motor oil you can find on sale. can be automotive oil....house brand oil....doesn't matter. 2-1/2 quarts full refill including filter replacement.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Lusiphur's Avatar
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    Jon

    I recently had my clutch cable replaced recently and had a similar issue after a couple of rides. I am thinking the cable stretched a little bit during break in. After reading this thread, I decided to take a look at mine and noticed the slop at the clutch lever was out of spec.
    I had to perform Step #4 and Step #7, but at the moment did not have to open the primary. I installed a Muller Power clutch on my XB9SX, so the additional steps are not to daunting.

    FYI, the specs and pictures for doing the barrel adjustment are in Section 1-26 of the factory manual. If anyone wants, I can take picture of that and upload them.
    Jack-O-Lantern
    2006 Buell XBRS LightningBolt
    http://www.buellxb.com/forum/album.php?albumid=129

  9. #9
    Member JonDredd's Avatar
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    Thanks all!

    I did adjust the clutch, and so far the issue with neutral is much better! No issues with it at all over the last few days. Thanks!

  10. #10
    Senior Member Lusiphur's Avatar
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    Lunatic

    Amsoil has a dedicated Synthetic V-Twin Primary fluid?
    Have you tried that compared to the Amsoil 20w-50

    I currently have Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50 in all holes. [That sounds so dirty ]


    Jack-O-Lantern
    2006 Buell XBRS LightningBolt
    http://www.buellxb.com/forum/album.php?albumid=129

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