Please help stator issue

[BambamXB12r]

I have a 2009 1125r with just over 5k on it. I already did the stator/rotor replacement from twin motorcycles and everything was great for about a week. On my way home today I was watching the voltage drop wondering how low it was supposed to get with the new stator/rotor, not too long after that the light came on and it continued to fall unless in the higher rpm range. Sounds to me like I burnt up the stator again, has anyone heard of this happening even after the replacement goes in? Any help would be appreciated, I really can't afford another stator.

[BambamXB12r]

Anything from anybody? Also has anyone had any personal experience with a stator from here http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/buell-stator
I'm going to test the stator when get a day off but just in case I do need a new one I figured I'd ask. Also if the stator did burn up even with the new rotor from twin motorcycles should I be ordering one from EBR now that they are up and running again? I also read in another thread something about needing to replace the VR when you do the stator/rotor swap, has anyone else had any experience with this?

[Cosworth]

Alot of 1125 owners seem to swap to a mosfet vr when at the same time when installing the cooling rotor. I changed rotor and stator about 3k miles ago with no issues.

Sorry cant help much, sounds like might just be luck of the draw.

I do really like rickmotorsports stuff id definitely give their stator a try.

[Mope]

Sounds pretty unlikely that you'd burn another one this quick (with an oiling rotor or otherwise). You're right, you need to check the three legs of the stator to determine if it's good or not - that's going to point you toward the culprit. If it is burned up that fast, yea, I'd be looking at the the VR. I'm sure there's a test to determine if that's good or not before replacing, as well. I just don't have any experience needing to do that one.

I did not change the VR after my rotor/stator and have another 9k incident free miles.

[Cooter]

Who diagnosed the last 'bad stator'? Perhaps the real problem was a bad VR causing overcharging/overheating in the first place?

All you can do is text the stator legs for functionality (output AND resistance), test the VR as well, and replace what's bad. You can also replace the rotor, or modify yours. The oiling hole keeps things a little cooler.

[BambamXB12r]

Update, I finally got time to test the stator and everything is good. My new VR from ricks came in a couple days ago and it's going to be installed tonight. All in all I have done the new stator from twin, the oiling rotor from twin, and the mosfet VR from ricks. The only other thing I am considering is this. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nBYEYGJfyBw
Has anyone ever heard of this being done or done it themselves? I have read a little about it on bad web but haven't found tons of info. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1433125446
You can find the link for the "un-fix" in the fourth post.

I also found some useful info here if anyone with an 1125 is looking into doing this project.
https://baf.zone/projects/1125-charg...em/writeup.pdf

[Cooter]

I would absolutely remove the "Harley fix".
With all good parts in your charging system, there is no need for the band aid. All it does is kill one leg of the stator to keep it cooler, but it also charges less.

[BambamXB12r]

Thanks for the response Cooter, I'm really excited to get the bike back on the road. Even with the constant 100+ degrees outside and ATGATT I'm still excited to get back on the road.

[bubba_]

Don't forget to keep a close watch on your battery status too. A bad battery can cause some similar symptoms.

[Cooter]

I would highly recommend testing the parts before just installing and riding off into the sunset. ATGATT in that heat sucks to walk home!

The stator test and VR test are both outlined easily in the manual, neither require bike disassembly, just unplugging the connector. You have checked your '77' connector... Right???