Wiring short. Need advice.

[Kohmeo]

07 Stt
Just put some new tires on and it had been running fine but then starting puttering around 3000. Got a check engine light. Got a code 32 (Rear cylinder short).
Removed the ground cable to the battery and hooked the mutli meter to battery ground and to a bolt on the frame. Set it on mA.
With the bike off and the key out I was getting a reading of about a 1.5.

Does this mean I have a short somewhere? I tried the fuse pulling thing and it only went to zero when I pulled the battery fuse.
If I do have a short, how to I find it, and where would I start? I have looked at the rear injector plug and wire and don't see anything obvious.

If I can't fix this I am thinking of trading it for something else.

[user_deleted]

with battery fully charged and your multi-meter, remove negative battery cable from BATTERY terminal. it must be attached to frame mounting point. set multi-meter to DC AMPS......NOT volts.....DC AMPS. pin the meter parallel between the cable end and the neg. battery terminal. with key off check. 200 milliamps should be max reading. what do you have? considerably higher than that? start removing the blade fuses one by one. notice substantial change? the fuse causing said change is the problem circuit. if the battery fuse is the one typically indicates a faulty VR or in rare instance short at the charging system (#77) connector plug behind your front pulley cover.
code #32 for your model year is "rear cylinder fuel injector". very rare it fails indeed.

[Kohmeo]

Followed instructions.
Got a spike of 60 milliamps which caused the speedo and tac to cycle. Then it would stabilize around 1.8. Removing the fuses caused slight variations but removing the battery fuse cause it to go to 0 (which I assume is what is supposed to happen.
I put a new voltage regulator stator in about a year ago. Found the 77 connector to be the cause of that and replaced that too.

Now what?

[Kohmeo]

It only seems to do it after I ride for a while. Also, I forgot to mention I have a race exhaust with a race ecu. It had been running fine prior to this code though.

[user_deleted]

Followed instructions.
Got a spike of 60 milliamps which caused the speedo and tac to cycle. Then it would stabilize around 1.8. Removing the fuses caused slight variations but removing the battery fuse cause it to go to 0 (which I assume is what is supposed to happen.
I put a new voltage regulator stator in about a year ago. Found the 77 connector to be the cause of that and replaced that too.

Now what?

that's a tough one but concentrate inside your fusebox. remove fusebox lid and look at top...underside....and one side of same. you should see the schematics there in white stenciled ink showing the location, amp rating, and application of all blade fuses and you're 3 relays. one relay block is empty. try your test again and one by one remove the relays. see what the result is. am betting either the ignition or key switch relay will reveal the problem. see provided schematic. shows them as well as all related circuits and fuses. 683749.jpg