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Thread: Idle climbs in gear with clutch pulled?! Idle stable in neutral, however.

  1. #11
    Senior Member s0dhi's Avatar
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    So after wrestling with it - the timesert fiasco which required additional grinding and swapping the standard ramp for the Muller Power Ramp, the culprit is the clutch switch. I jumped it with a piece of wire and the idle does not climb with the clutch in while in gear.

    Apparently, this is a built in feature, but it's bumping the revs to 2000-ish which isn't desirable.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Never heard that one.
    I thought the clutch switch was only for the starter interlock? Why would it affect idle at all? Why would it need too?

  3. #13
    Senior Member s0dhi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Never heard that one.
    I thought the clutch switch was only for the starter interlock? Why would it affect idle at all? Why would it need too?
    It is supposed to bump idle up 200rpm or so in gear with the clutch lever pulled on 2008+ XBs. It is by design to keep the bikes from stalling, and to roll away from a stop more easily.

    Found this info in numerous BadWeb posts, oddly nothing on BuellXB.com.

    http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1419893327

    http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1393289958

    http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1412704216

    http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1468204521

    There is still some form of issue because that rev bump should only be 200rpm, not 400-800rpm. I'm doubtful that it's the IAC since the IAC is working well at idle in neutral. Or it could be a tuning issue.

    So, in summary - it's technically not at problem, I just never noticed the behaviour with the factory exhaust and aftermarket levers. Now, with the aftermarket exhaust and factory levers, I've stumbled upon this rev bump.

    Edit: I've disabled the clutch switch for now as I never start the bike in gear anyway. I'm interested to see what the implications are, programming/operation wise.
    Last edited by s0dhi; 08-10-2016 at 02:46 PM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member s0dhi's Avatar
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    OK, the ECM doesn't like the switch disabled. I think I would have to turn off those trouble codes within the ECM - kind of like putting electrical tape over a check engine light. I've enabled the switch again.



    Errors:
    34 - IAC position too low
    26 - Clutch short to ground/broken wire

    I think I'm done now. I have a much better understanding of what the ECM is doing.

    Edit: I pulled out the jumper and cleaned out the switch with sensor cleaner.
    Last edited by s0dhi; 08-13-2016 at 12:12 PM.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Just throwing this out there because I'm not sure how all the little electrical gizmos and upgrades work on an 08 plus bike.

    Have you checked for an intake leak?
    I know on 07 and older Buells an intake leak can cause all sorts of erratic idle issues. Not sure what would happen on the 08 and up bikes with the IAC valve and other electronics constantly adjusting the idle.

  6. #16
    Senior Member s0dhi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicknstripn View Post
    Just throwing this out there because I'm not sure how all the little electrical gizmos and upgrades work on an 08 plus bike.

    Have you checked for an intake leak?
    I know on 07 and older Buells an intake leak can cause all sorts of erratic idle issues. Not sure what would happen on the 08 and up bikes with the IAC valve and other electronics constantly adjusting the idle.
    Yes, I did with a propane torch and didn't notice any change to the idle. I'm also not sure if the IAC would compensate for it or not.

    Over the winter, I'm going to rotate the engine to either replace the headers or add O2 bungs, so I will be a good time to go through all of the gaskets and seals. Might as well replace them while everything is accessible.
    Last edited by s0dhi; 08-11-2016 at 02:27 PM.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Since you say the clutch switch is the problem, wouldn't it be easiest to just replace the cheap part?

  8. #18
    Senior Member s0dhi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Since you say the clutch switch is the problem, wouldn't it be easiest to just replace the cheap part?
    I tried to remove it, but stripped the screw head - God knows what supernatural thread locker was used. I used an aerosol sensor cleaner and thoroughly cleaned it before jumpering it. I'll order a spare one in the off season, just to have one.

    Ultimately, the switch really isn't the issue. It's doing what it's designed to do and the ECM programming is using that info to bump the idle. If anything, it's a programming/mapping issue.

    Edit: Bike is running well (with the exception of slight hesitation at 2000rpm while accelerating) and the antics have subsided. Anyhow, I'm comfortable that I understand what's happening; I was just posting the error codes and finding etc. to put some knowledge back into the forum rather than into Facebook.


    Last edited by s0dhi; 08-13-2016 at 12:08 PM.

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