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Thread: New to me '06 Uly running rough

  1. #1
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    New to me '06 Uly running rough

    Hey all, last week I picked up a completely stock '06 Uly with only 2,700 miles. Obviously it was hardly ridden, and the P.O. Stored it outside over the Wisconsin winter without any fuel stabilizer. It was running ok at first, as long as I was easy on the throttle. If I try to jump on it at all, it would bog down hard like it's not getting enough gas right around 3,500 rpm. Over the weekend I rode it quite a bit and put in two tanks of fresh gas (93 octane) with a dab of royal purple fuel system cleaner in each tank to try to clean it all out. After only a slight improvement, I started reading some stuff on here and downloaded a manual and read that idle speed should be about 1,100 rpm. Since mine was at about 800-900, I turned it up last night, thinking that might have been a quick answer to my issue. After a short trip around the block, my CEL came on.

    I just bought the Buelltooth online today, so hopefully that'll come in the mail shortly to help me diagnose the problem. Does anyone have any ideas for things to check before it comes?

    Matt

  2. #2
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Matt- welcome to the world of Buell!
    And the frustration that comes along with a Buell that is having issues!
    Don't worry, you're definitely in the right place for help.
    I would check the condition of the battery. If it's the original battery it may need to be replaced.
    Do a quick search on how to test your battery.
    Also insure that all your grounds are clean and tight. The CEL could be as simple as a loose ground connection.
    Look in the manual for how to check trouble codes. Knowing why the CEL is coming on will greatly help in finding a solution to your running issues.
    I'm sure with you bike having sat so long the TPS could use a reset. But like I said, find out what the CEL is for and then go from there.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Chicknstripn! I do love the bike so far, I'm just anxious to get it running properly.

    I do recall the P.O. saying he had to jump it to get it started after sitting all winter, so maybe the battery could use either a full charge or replacement. I'll start there.

    Another thing I just remembered that I thought was weird was that the neutral light is intermittent. Just last night I parked it, still idling, with the neutral light off. It would come on and turn back off with each rev of the throttle. Could that be battery related or a wiring harness issue?

  4. #4
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    Update:

    I looked at the battery and saw that it was the original, so I found an old thread on here for the best replacement battery and ordered the Big Crank ETX-14 from batterymart.com. It should arrive in 2-3 days. Until then, I was just going to do some light maintenance, cleaning, and looking around.

    Tonight I warmed her up (no CEL this time - bonus!) and changed the oil and filter. Same bogging behavior as before. Then I took off the airbox cover and inspected air filter - not terrible, not new either. I then took off the thing the air filter sits on and the rubber intake boot (sorry for my lack of proper technical term usage haha) to see what it would take to change the spark plugs. After struggling with the hose clamp to reassemble the intake boot for about 20 minutes, I finally got it on (I think) and fired her up to make sure it was correct. I decided to take it around the block to make sure nothing else went wrong in the process, and was absolutely flabbergasted to find out SHE HAS FULL POWER. I didn't clean or replace the air filter, or change anything else upon reassembly. Does anyone have any idea what I could have done to "fix" my problem? I'm scared that it will come back.

    Thanks for reading my rant.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Your battery being low may have just been the issue. When bike is running and its not getting at least 12v it can throw codes. So ride it some after new battery before you fix any codes. There are lots of peeps on here that will help you out

  6. #6
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    what Z said regarding battery quite accurate. you made a great choice with the Deka Big Crank. best AGM style battery on the market. you have a few issues there and you also need a base-line to start with. when you receive your battery give it a top-off charge of 6 amps for 5 minutes or so. the XB series buells run horribly when the airbox base plate to TB rubber attachment boot is not fully seated and securely in place. perhaps it had been fiddled with before by PO or a tech and not properly fitted. also note that it has a lip on the airbox base-plate end. the split lip MUST be properly aligned and seated with the base-plate. to establish your base-line if you will..... do the following and remember that if you don't have the ability to access the ecm and clear any stored trouble codes...that 50 "clean run cycles" will remove all stored codes.
    1-install new battery and BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to place the round brass washers provided with the battery....one each....between the battery terminal and cable. flat spot on washer faces down towards battery. if you DO NOT install them correctly the eventual result is a cracked battery case and/or broken cable ends.
    2-follow link below i provide for you and check your codes. you will find in all probability that you have #16 stored.
    3-set warm idle speed at approx. 1000rpm. warm means you can feel a bit of warmth to the touch on the left side of swingarm in vicinity of the fill-cap. 1000rpm a nice idle speed and prevents idle hang-up when motor gets very warm.

    http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...77/146574.html
    Last edited by user_deleted; 09-09-2016 at 12:00 PM.

  7. #7
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    I think you're right about the rubber attachment boot not being fully seated, causing the bogging issue at higher RPMs.

    As far as the battery, I will need to buy a proper charger. Is there a specific brand you recommend? This 7.2A one on Amazon has good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWTHP2?psc=1

    I should be getting the Buelltooth in the mail early next week so can read and clear codes. I'm hoping it shows the #16 battery voltage code exclusively.

    I do have the idle set right around 1000 RPM and it seems to be running great. Thanks for all of the help!

  8. #8
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    yes sir my pleasure. regarding the charger in that link.....IMO a bit of over-kill and i prefer something more along the lines of old-school style and ruggedness and limited to 12 volts only. don't know why you would need the 24V feature of the link charger. see link below. several outfits make box chargers like this. all in same price range. they are rugged as hell...great alligator clips...internally fused so cross-connected attachment won't burn out the internals. search for the model that has both 6 and 12 volt capability as the 6 can be handy in the future. i'm 62....bought mine at age 20....still working like a charm. no gimmicks or bells and whistles....just solid reliability and great pricing. use this link as sample of one i'm referring to.

    http://www.lowes.com/pd/Schumacher-E...2-26fddb10fbeb

  9. #9
    I am a huge fan of the battery tender brand and have a couple different ones, this is my typical one during storage in my shed

    https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende...battery+tender

    I also have a couple singles for use during the season as I'm changing out which bike to ride.

    Hope this helps

  10. #10
    Junior Member
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    Update:

    With the Buelltooth and ECMDroid app, it was incredibly simple to retrieve the stored trouble codes. I did in fact have the #16 - Low Voltage code, but I also had a couple logs of #21 - ACM Stuck Open. I think I remember browsing a different thread where somebody disabled the interactive exhaust in the ECM. Is this advisable or not recommended? If not, what should I do to make sure the code doesn't come back?

    NEW ISSUE: I parked at work this morning and noticed the bike was leaning a little lower than normal. Then she just started to fall and luckily I caught her before hitting the ground, right as the sidestand made a nice wind-chime sound on the blacktop. THE BOLTS SHEARED RIGHT OFF. So now I have a new after-work project of taking off the exhaust, extracting the broken bolts, and replacing. The manual doesn't specify the threads on the bolts. Does anyone know if these are 5/16"-18 or 8mm-1.25? I'm guessing it's safe to say all the fasteners on these bikes are standard, but I just want to be sure.

    Thanks again for all of the help!



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