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Thread: Need Some Help! 2006 XB12SS Crazy Tachometer & Rough Running!

  1. #1
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    Question Need Some Help! 2006 XB12SS Crazy Tachometer & Rough Running!

    First of all, good morning. I've not had much luck in any forum for anything before, hopefully this one is different.

    Here Goes...

    I just obtained a 2006 XB12SS Lightning w/ 25k Miles. Bike looks stock as far as performance with the exception of K&N AF and an Exhaust. I just did plugs on it today. My issue is that once riding approx 5-10mi, the tach will start to go crazy. It'll go up, down, zero, etc. Shortly after that, the bike will start bucking and stuttering like its about to fall on its a**. It'll backfire and spit flames. Its sort of like a starvation of fuel, but its not. It'll straighten itself out once i get on the throttle a bit for about 10mi, and then its just a waiting game to see if it starts doing it again. The bike is great when its cold. Im completely dumbfounded here. This happens at highway speeds, around the city, pretty much anywhere. No "Engine Light". Two full tanks have been run through since i've had it, so that rules out "Bad Fuel". I just replaced the plugs today and it seemed to do a little better, but then it went right back to it. I've heard about the TPS reset, however i do not know where to begin, nor have access to do it myself. Any insight will work wonders.

    Thanks!

    P.S. In Lakeland, FL. (Tampa Area)14358778_10205208401408845_1231680365998896130_n.jpg

  2. #2
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    My two cents - there's lots of folks here that are great at trouble shooting.

    Normally, the TPS would be the first thing to recommend as it sets a good baseline; sounds like you know about that but can't do so at this time. I'd be checking for an intake leak next since the problem worsens as the bike warms. That's something that you can do now without any(little) cost and is a common culprit (although, when you say RPM = Zero, does the tach drop to zero and the bike is running or did it stall out? That answer points toward mech vs. electrical issue). Your picture is small, but it looks like that seat might be..........rednecked? You could have a situation where your seat is rubbing the ECM. I'd let her get hot, pop the seat off and move the ecm/wiring a bit to see if you can set off symptoms.

  3. #3
    Senior Member lancruza's Avatar
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    Check all your grounding points.

  4. #4
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    ^yea, especially at the steering neck......the wiggle test while running

  5. #5
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    your problem is purely electrical so nothing will be resolved by throwing parts at it. do the following and report back:
    1- find all your dedicated grounds. they are 4 wire cluster located front steering neck/pinch bolt/triple clamp area.....large braided dog-bone wire beneath rear section of airbox base plate.....negative battery cable to frame area. do NOT only look at them....remove all, clean, reattach, tighten. visual inspection only worthless.
    2-battery. remove both cables, clean thoroughly, retighten and check battery age and condition.
    3-you replaced the "plugs". i'll assume you're referring to spark plugs. did you install both plug leads tight and securely? are the leads and boots pristine? did you check the wiring harness plug to coil when doing this work?

  6. #6
    Senior Member Phelan's Avatar
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    The issues you describe sound like a cam sensor or ECM. Pull the timjng cover and the cover behind it to view the cam sensor. If the epoxy is melted, it is obviously bad. If not, you will have to test it with a heat gun. Start the bike and let it idle while heating up the cam sensor with a heat gun. If the bike starts sluttering and dying after a few min, then the cam sensor is bad. As for the ECM, you need the bike warmed up, then pull the seat and let thr bike idle. Tap the ECM with your knuckle like you would knock on a door. If the bike stumbles or dies when you do so, the ECM is bad.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mope View Post
    My two cents - there's lots of folks here that are great at trouble shooting.

    Normally, the TPS would be the first thing to recommend as it sets a good baseline; sounds like you know about that but can't do so at this time. I'd be checking for an intake leak next since the problem worsens as the bike warms. That's something that you can do now without any(little) cost and is a common culprit (although, when you say RPM = Zero, does the tach drop to zero and the bike is running or did it stall out? That answer points toward mech vs. electrical issue). Your picture is small, but it looks like that seat might be..........rednecked? You could have a situation where your seat is rubbing the ECM. I'd let her get hot, pop the seat off and move the ecm/wiring a bit to see if you can set off symptoms.
    Dumb question, how do i test the intake? Also, the bike will be steady cruising at approx 3500RPM and the tach will show 0, or sometimes all the way up to redline, with a steady throttle and speed.

  8. #8
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    I will give all these a try and report back.

  9. #9
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    ^the smart(er?!) guys already targeted it as electrical. If it's still running, idle isn't hanging or bike stalling, you can skip the intake test and move on to the electrical tests.

  10. #10
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    The bike runs like crap when the tach goes haywire. It sputters and backfires and wants to die.



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