Rear brakes

[Naibaf82]

Just making sure! Is there a thread in how to change the rear brakes? I'm like 99.9% sure that it's pretty straight forward but just want to make sure! Thanks in advanced

[WhiskeyFox]

It's REALLY easy.



1&2 are the mounting bolts and 3 is the pad retainer, loosten 3 first but don't remove it until you are ready to remove the pads.
There is a set screw covering the actual bolt, don't just loosen that...

Remember to compress the piston in the caliper. I usually leave the old pads in and spread them with some wrenches or something.

There is a clip in the front of the caliper, make sure it stays in place or replace it if you got a new clip.

And when everything is back together remember to pump the rear brake before you go riding.

Good luck!

[Chicknstripn]

www.buellmods.com
Down load a service manual.

[user_deleted]

very nice pic and great info from whiskeyfox BUT a bit more to it than that if you're looking for complete refreshment. follow the steps below in addition to his instructions:
1-remove master cylinder cap...remove all fluid...replace cap.
2-with caliper removed now take a very large flat-blade screwdriver and completely spread the old pads apart until all movement ceases. this means the pistons are fully compressed inside their bores. now remove old pads.
3-remove master cylinder cap....remove any residual fluid accumulated from step #2 above....completely swab out bottom of reservoir if you see any crud in there....fill to "full" line with dot-4 fluid. install cap.
4-install new pads...replace caliper...tiny dab of anti-seize on pair of mounting bolts. NOW activate the brake lever pushing pistons and pads out towards the rotor. when accomplished remove reservoir cap and fill fluid level to proper full level.

[Phelan]

I hose down the caliper piston with brake cleaner to remove brake dust before pushing the piston into the caliper. Otherwise you risk tearing the seal and/or contaminating the brake fluid in the caliper.

[WhiskeyFox]

@LunaticFringe

I've never seen the value of replacing brake fluid at pad change time.
I usually don't even open the cap either.
In my experience I've never had difficulty compressing the piston while the system is sealed up, and the fluid level at the end is usually still within spec.

Besides, I think if you are going to change most of the fluid then you should just change ALL the fluid! Adding new juice to old juice isn't helping anything. It's not hurting anything either, but it's money you don't need to spend.

I also don't want any potential for air to enter the system, and completely emptying the master cylinder is a good way to do that! Sorry, but I'm not bleeding the brakes for a simple pad change...

When it's time to change the fluid, then I'll drain it all, clean the master cylinder, refill, bleed, and finish it up. Pad day? I think it's unnecessary.


... But I guess if you regularly add fluid to the reservoir you would have to remove fluid come pad day. I never was that diligent. As long as my fluid is between the lines I let it roll, and it always seemed to me if the fluid was getting low and there weren't any leaks then the pads were on their way out anyway.
YMMV...

[user_deleted]

@LunaticFringe

I've never seen the value of replacing brake fluid at pad change time.
I usually don't even open the cap either.
In my experience I've never had difficulty compressing the piston while the system is sealed up, and the fluid level at the end is usually still within spec.

Besides, I think if you are going to change most of the fluid then you should just change ALL the fluid! Adding new juice to old juice isn't helping anything. It's not hurting anything either, but it's money you don't need to spend.

I also don't want any potential for air to enter the system, and completely emptying the master cylinder is a good way to do that! Sorry, but I'm not bleeding the brakes for a simple pad change...

When it's time to change the fluid, then I'll drain it all, clean the master cylinder, refill, bleed, and finish it up. Pad day? I think it's unnecessary.


... But I guess if you regularly add fluid to the reservoir you would have to remove fluid come pad day. I never was that diligent. As long as my fluid is between the lines I let it roll, and it always seemed to me if the fluid was getting low and there weren't any leaks then the pads were on their way out anyway.
YMMV...

matter of opinion and personal preference but let me address a few of your assumptions/opinions by paragraphs listed and in the end it's inevitably up to the pad installer what he or she thinks is best for their individual disc brake system:

your 1st paragraph: i've been doing this for close to 50 years now and can assure you and everyone else that brake fluid and refreshing same is the most neglected component of every cycle i see come thru my shop. disc pads for the typical north american rider last approx. 5 years on average. that just happens to coincide with the amount of time it usually takes to seriously degrade brake fluid....hence the flush job.

your 2nd paragraph: every single bike i perform a pad change on gets a reservoir cleaning and fresh fluid install. takes no more than 15 minutes when done with proficiency and experience. the labor and fluid cost is very low. the cost of master cylinder rebuilds, hoses and caliper rebuilds is not low.....hence fresh fluid.

your 3rd paragraph: absolutely positively impossible for air to enter a brake system when the master cylinder is temporarily emptied and cleaned unless the lever or pedal activated when cylinder is empty. myself and any competent tech or home mechanic surely has enough common sense not to touch the pedal/lever while performing this simple task.

bike brake systems are both complex, difficult to rebuild properly, expensive to purchase rebuild components for, and an extremely important component of any cycle. the riders' life depends on them and it continues to baffle me why brake systems in general suffer such neglect. personally....i don't trust dot-3 or dot-4 fluid longer than 5 years max. neither do the manufacturers.....hence the section "replacing brake fluid and cleaning brake system" described in every single service manual for every brand of motorcycle i've ever seen.....and typically recommended at the 4-5 year mark.

[lancruza]

matter of opinion and personal preference but let me address a few of your assumptions/opinions by paragraphs listed and in the end it's inevitably up to the pad installer what he or she thinks is best for their individual disc brake system:

your 1st paragraph: i've been doing this for close to 50 years now and can assure you and everyone else that brake fluid and refreshing same is the most neglected component of every cycle i see come thru my shop. disc pads for the typical north american rider last approx. 5 years on average. that just happens to coincide with the amount of time it usually takes to seriously degrade brake fluid....hence the flush job.

your 2nd paragraph: every single bike i perform a pad change on gets a reservoir cleaning and fresh fluid install. takes no more than 15 minutes when done with proficiency and experience. the labor and fluid cost is very low. the cost of master cylinder rebuilds, hoses and caliper rebuilds is not low.....hence fresh fluid.

your 3rd paragraph: absolutely positively impossible for air to enter a brake system when the master cylinder is temporarily emptied and cleaned unless the lever or pedal activated when cylinder is empty. myself and any competent tech or home mechanic surely has enough common sense not to touch the pedal/lever while performing this simple task.

bike brake systems are both complex, difficult to rebuild properly, expensive to purchase rebuild components for, and an extremely important component of any cycle. the riders' life depends on them and it continues to baffle me why brake systems in general suffer such neglect. personally....i don't trust dot-3 or dot-4 fluid longer than 5 years max. neither do the manufacturers.....hence the section "replacing brake fluid and cleaning brake system" described in every single service manual for every brand of motorcycle i've ever seen.....and typically recommended at the 4-5 year mark.

NOW, ya got me paranoid. Guess what I'm gonna do this week, lol.

[WhiskeyFox]

@LunaticFringe

Dang, 5 years? I had no idea the average was that long.
I ride a lot more and/or a lot heavier than the average rider, then. It doesn't take me anywhere near 5 years to go through brakes...

I guess I forget that most people only ride recreationally, I daily ride AND ride for fun, and I trail brake a lot and drag the rear on almost all low speed maneuvers. Hell, last year I had a bit of a commute and did about 18k in 6 months!
So I usually do a fluid change every OTHER pad change or longer and don't consider them hand in hand operations...

But from your perspective I DO see the merit in it. I'm not a professional mechanic, and if I am very much an abnormal case I see that it may be an important step for a lot of riders.
So thanks for the information!

[user_deleted]

But from your perspective I DO see the merit in it. I'm not a professional mechanic, and if I am very much an abnormal case I see that it may be an important step for a lot of riders.
So thanks for the information!

yes sir always my pleasure. from your perspective and amount and style of riding i believe you're doing the correct brake service. fluid flush and refill given your amount of riding would not be required IMO.