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Thread: Where to buy relays?

  1. #1

    Where to buy relays?

    So I got stranded today. Tail light and oil light came on, but nothing else. Did some searching on my phone before calling a tow truck. Came across a forum post about switching the relays. I swapped the start and ignition relays and it worked. When I got home I pulled the key switch relay(took some effort) and one of female slots looked like it melted a little. Tomorrow I'm going to snoop around for broken wires.

    I tried searching online for relay replacements and couldn't find any. Are these generic relays or Buell only? Could I take it in to Autozone and look for one that looks like it? Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    I bought relays on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Part number H-D#31522-00
    The Buell XB relays have the same part number, but I still have not not installed the new relays, so I would double check if they will fit.

  3. #3
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C2H5OH View Post
    So I got stranded today. Tail light and oil light came on, but nothing else. Did some searching on my phone before calling a tow truck. Came across a forum post about switching the relays. I swapped the start and ignition relays and it worked. When I got home I pulled the key switch relay(took some effort) and one of female slots looked like it melted a little. Tomorrow I'm going to snoop around for broken wires.

    I tried searching online for relay replacements and couldn't find any. Are these generic relays or Buell only? Could I take it in to Autozone and look for one that looks like it? Any help would be appreciated.
    you have an issue there that needs attention. hot relay caused by poor pin connection between said relay and fuse box assembly....hence your melting. address issue of the male receiver slots in fuse box. i just posted up complete instructions and pics courtesy of Rays from OZ. excellent read with pics that precisely addresses what's going on with your "melting". the relays are common chrysler/ford a/c relays available at any auto parts joint on the cheap. take one of yours along and match it up. refer to embossed amp rating atop your relay for precise match.

  4. #4
    Can I get a link to that?

  5. #5
    Relay issue solved. Now a problem with neutral. Used to be able to start in neutral while on the side stand, now I have to pull the clutch while in neutral.

  6. #6
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    Couple of possible scenarios.
    Did you pull the diode and replace during your fault finding? It is in the fuse block, coloured black with a diode symbol similar to this "-|<-".
    If yes, when you have the bike in gear (ignition on obviously), does the neutral light come on when the clutch is pulled in? If yes, the diode has been put in the wrong way around.
    Simply swap it end for end and you should be good to go.

    If you didn't pull the diode is the neutral light nice and bright or really dull? I have seen the neutral switch get very resistive and that started as a dull neutral light and got to the point where there was so much voltage being dropped across the switch the ignition relay wouldn't pull in cleanly and I had to pull the clutch to get a decent ground for the start relay. In my case it didn't go cleanly from working to not working - there was an intermediate stage where the start relay chattered (very similar symptoms to a low battery) but anything is possible.
    If you suspect it is related to the neutral switch then it is really easy to test (assuming you have a multimeter) - it is located behind the front pulley cover just forward of the front pulley and should measure pretty much zero ohms when activated in neutral.
    It is also possible the diode has suddenly failed and gone open circuit - I have never seen that myself but technically possible. The diode is there to allow the neutral switch OR the clutch switch provide a ground to the start relay while isolating the neutral light in the instruments so it doesn't light up with when the clutch is pulled in.
    If you don't have a multimeter to test the diode just pop a spare fuse into the diode location and if the diode was open circuit the bike should start in neutral now but of course the clutch will also trigger the neutral light but it is an easy way to prove/eliminate an open-circuit diode.

  7. #7
    Thanks Rays. I did pull the diode while checking all the fuses. Went out and tried flipping it around, didn't work. Put in a spare fuse and it worked. Then I put the diode back in and everything is fine again. Thank you sir!

  8. #8
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C2H5OH View Post
    Thanks Rays. I did pull the diode while checking all the fuses. Went out and tried flipping it around, didn't work. Put in a spare fuse and it worked. Then I put the diode back in and everything is fine again. Thank you sir!
    it did that because you broke the corrosive bond between the female spades in the fusebox and the male spades of the diode/fuse. that in conjunction with your over-heating relay is classic sign of a corroded fusebox. if i were you i would remove each and every fuse and relay....spray the connector terminals with something such as kano-kroil, thoroughly clean, and replace all relays and fuses. critical that this be done for proper operation of all your bikes' electrical systems.

  9. #9
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    FYI, I bought replacement relays from my local HD dealer for $5 a piece this summer. If you're ever in a bind, it might be worth checking your dealer.



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