Need help!!

[river_rat17]

I did a tps reset today which did not help it, then I did the intake gasket test. The bikes rpm did not drop when I sprayed brake cleaner on the seals. I took a video of the issue.
https://youtu.be/LxlV6C14G8Y
I'll be checking the CPS next.

[lowkey]

First off nice looking bike!

Audio on the vid wasn't so great but looks like the RPM's are slow to return and from what I can tell the backfires are not coming through the intake but exhaust somewhere right? Check the the bolt torque on the header to head flanges they can come loose over time. The rear one is an absolute PITA! While you are checking them Check the clamp where the header meets the muffler as well. I forgot when I very first bought my bike from the PO on the first short ride I found one of the header bolts had snapped off in the front head and the bike behaved somewhat like in your video.

Now that you have a way to read the ECU, can you check for stored codes for us? What is your AFV reading?

[Cooter]

Use this type of socket and the rear exhaust flange nuts are a piece of cake. Do NOT over tighten them!

[river_rat17]

Just an update, I changed my intake seals just to be sure and nothing changed. I did find header bolts loose, not the problem though. Starting to suspect it's something in the ecm is incorrect.

[Simplymichaeljr]

I need me a set of those cooter. I hate when that socket comes of the knuckle when I'm changing spark plugs. ...car, truck or bike

[Simplymichaeljr]

Check your timing https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2epTWjP5rfg

[lowkey]

Did this bike ever run right for you, or you bought it running like this?

It's worth a look to make sure the injector wires are going to the right ones "Pink red color front cylinder. Green rear cylinder". Taken from this thread where the motor was rotated and the leads were installed backwards. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1466800821

Also found this the other day for the first time, I've never come across it on this forum but I want to do it once I get a dongle. The TPS seems to be very sensitive even though I've never had mine out of sync.

"Remember to save your starting point data, just in case. I would also recommend a solid TPS setting where your TPS sensor is preloaded to the throttle plate shaft.

Pasting info here to be helpful, as this is very important for your start point.

At idle, the throttle body plate bounces slightly due to the pulsations from the opening and closing of the intake valves.

It is important to eliminate any play between the throttle plate and the TPS.

Here is how to do it:

Guys, Here is the deal on the solid TPS reset.

Think of the TPS as a spring loaded pot. It sends a voltage signal to the ECM and it adds fuel accordingly. Very simple really. The entire process is actually based on the starting point of the TPS in relation to the throttle plate. The TPS has two plastic index tabs that must line up with the tabs on the throttle plate shaft. It seems most TPS sensors are installed straight up from the factory and this is ok for a while. After the bike is broken in, these tabs get a small amount of wear on them and they are no longer properly timed with the true zero of the throttle plate. This is when everyone runs to the stealer to get their TPS reset. It is the combination of wear on the TPS tabs, and lack of technical proficiency of the techs that seem to always provide mixed results.

In order to be certain you have a true zero try the following:

With your air box assembly and base off, the TPS sensor is right on top of the throttle body. If your TPS has two orange dots, you have the new revision with the vertical alignment tabs. This procedure applies to the old style as well. Adjust both throttle cables so sufficient slack is available. Back off idle adjustment cable until the throttle plate will snap shut without touching the idle cable stop. With a scribe, mark the TPS position by scratching a single line from the throttle body to the TPS. This will serve as a reference point just in case. With a 7mm open end wrench, remove the two TPS mounting bolts and remove the TPS from the throttle body. Clean the debris from the back of the TPS and the side of the throttle body. Apply a small amount of high temp silicone grease to the tabs on the TPS to minimize wear in the future. Replace the TPS but leave the mounting bolts slightly loose and rotate the TPS full left (counterclockwise). Insure the throttle plate is totally closed, then rotate the TPS until you feel the spring make contact with the alignment tabs on the throttle plate. Rotate the TPS slightly clockwise to preload the mechanical zero position and secure mounting bolts. Most of you will notice that according to your reference marks, your new position is just slightly right of the old position. Now your TPS and throttle plate are truly aligned, without play. Connect all wiring and perform a TPS reset, just like the manual states.
Now you have a solid TPS zero.

Ride and feel the difference. I have no more sneezing or lean like surging." Taken from this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1197645760

I keep watching your video of your bike and stuck on the slow idle return as your main focus to track down for the cure, for me this is down to unmetered air or bad sensor reading. Look at dialing in TPS as posted above, zero timing, and swap the O2 sensor in that order. First two are free and the O2 is $20.00.

[river_rat17]

The PO said he adjusted the timing in the program never touched the static timing but I can't find where he did that in the program. If he advanced it I think it would cause this problem. Anyone know how to adjust timing in the program?

[river_rat17]

Lowkey, yes this has been an issue since I got this bike. The PO lied to me before I bought the bike then confessed to it after I contacted him about it. He said he has had Xopti work on the dean adams tune to try and fix this issue. I'm wondering if something is not checked right in the program. I just don't know what the original setup should be. Maybe he has the warm up enrichment on all the time, idk. I think he liked to tinker alot and he has also sent me about 5 maps he tried also has 2 different eeproms. I would change the CPS but I don't want to throw parts at it. I would think the CPS would be causing issues through out the whole range not just 0-4000 rpm. But again Idk. And when I did the intake seals I checked to make sure the tps was not damaged and cleaned, and made sure the injector cables were correct, they said rear and front. I cleaned the throttle body really well and did a proper tps reset when completed.

[Simplymichaeljr]

Check your timing https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2epTWjP5rfg

While you have the cam cover off you can check the timing AND the CPS using a multimeter. Do a search for checking the CPS.