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Thread: Blowing the Ignition Relay

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    Blowing the Ignition Relay

    I have an '05 xb12s that keeps blowing the ignition relay. one went today after about 120 miles and the next one after another 20. Seems to happen at low rpm, stopping, or shutting the bike off. I am not an expert with electrical systems and have checked for bare wires and cleaned the grounding points. Anything else to look for? anyone in the Savannah GA area that is knowledgable? Thanks

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    Senior Member 34nineteen's Avatar
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    What's part of the relay is "blowing"? The primary or secondary side?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 34nineteen View Post
    What's part of the relay is "blowing"? The primary or secondary side?
    My apologies for my lack on knowledge on the system. Im not sure whether it is the primary. It gets a fried look. When this happens the fuel pump doesn't come on. But when I put in a fresh relay fuse she fires right up.

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    It looks to be the number 30 side on the relay that looks fried

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    Now that I am double checking it looks like it is the key switch relay that is giving me issues

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    Quote Originally Posted by pono55 View Post
    I have an '05 xb12s that keeps blowing the ignition relay. one went today after about 120 miles and the next one after another 20. Seems to happen at low rpm, stopping, or shutting the bike off. I am not an expert with electrical systems and have checked for bare wires and cleaned the grounding points. Anything else to look for? anyone in the Savannah GA area that is knowledgable? Thanks
    you have several possible issues causing this and all need to be checked. follow the list below that i am providing for you and report back with results. NOTE; on your ignition relay pins #30 and #87 transfer the current load. if only #87 looks charred or burned the problem lies with the female spades of the fuse box. if both 30 and 87 look charred or burned the problem is in the circuitry itself.
    1-remove relay...CAREFULLY AND CLOSELY check the female spades of the fusebox that it plugs into. if corroded or worn that is typically the result of over-heating.
    2-with new relay in place turn ignition key on...red run switch ON....and observe the gauge cluster. now wiggle the ignition key. anything weird going on in the cluster or fuel pump repeatedly priming? faulty ignition switch. replace same.
    3-remove your stock flyscreen and carefully check all wiring bundles for chafing, shorts, bare spots, positive horn feed wire rubbing on horn bracket, chafing or frayed wires on the main harness feeding into the flyscreen area.
    4-find ignition fuse in your fusebox. remove...check spades....check female sockets....clean and replace.
    5-another known cause is over-charging problem. start bike...get heat in motor...pin a multi-meter onto the battery terminals...set meter to DC VOLTS...rev to 2500rpm and hold there....now check meter. you want 13.2-14.4 DC volts. anything outside that window you've got a charging system problem.

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    What a great write up... Do that ^^^


    If it is truly only the #30 pin on the relay thats burned and everything else Lunatic had you check is OK:

    The load circuit (including the fuel pump) is compromised somewhere. High load, chaffed wires that are grounding... Is there anything aftermarket hooked up? Did someone attach grip heaters to the wrong circuit?

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    Thanks lunatic much appreciated

    1. Female spades are corroded and plastic melted. Going to clean and see how it does
    2. Not seeing anything weird with ignition switch.
    3. Can't find anything with the wiring, but I'm not the most knowledgeable with the system.
    4. Will clean and test how she does
    5. Doesn't seem to be over charging currently

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    What a great write up... Do that ^^^


    If it is truly only the #30 pin on the relay thats burned and everything else Lunatic had you check is OK:

    The load circuit (including the fuel pump) is compromised somewhere. High load, chaffed wires that are grounding... Is there anything aftermarket hooked up? Did someone attach grip heaters to the wrong circuit?
    thanks much shaughn. i just re-read this guy's update and if in fact the #30 pin on the relay is the one showing resistive over-heating and/or burn marks then the problem is either a broken ground wire coming from the fusebox itself....faulty ignition switch...or a short in the right handlebar switchgear. that switchgear contains red-run switch which energizes several other circuits including fuel pump. that is where the problem lies. see schematic attached.683749.jpg



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