Reply With QuoteYou can buy one.
Re-torquing unnecessarily will absolutely break header studs. Broken header studs will make the tubes crack, cracked tubes won't support the muffler body....
Time to call Dean
So I noticed that my bike has started to sound like a lawn mower, and after inspecting it I found that my gpr reverse cone muffler was cracked completely in half, header is cracked, and one stud on each header sheared off. Not psyched. I have to take the engine out to be able to drill the stud out of the rear head. But what the hell??? I frequently check th headers for torque because I know they get loose over time. It's like I hit something and it put a tremendous amount of stress throughout th whole system. I don't remember hitting anything though. Well here goes nothing. I customized a drill bar that fits over the good stud and locates the drill perfectly center over the broken stud. Drilling the broken stud out will be a breeeazzze. Just sucks I can't access them with the engine in the frame
You can buy one.
Re-torquing unnecessarily will absolutely break header studs. Broken header studs will make the tubes crack, cracked tubes won't support the muffler body....
Time to call Dean
your symptoms and your damages are the result of an exhaust system modification. the STOCK XB system is beautifully designed, robust components, well engineered and typically performs admirably over the life of the bike with little to no problems or maintenance required. it does need occasional checking for tightness throughout and the IEV feature can be problematic in corrosive climates....but the STOCK system itself performs admirably. having said that....notice i mentioned the word STOCK twice.Originally Posted by 303frost
Yeah luckily I have a spare complete exhaust system that is 💯 going back on. Just have to drill out the broken studs and torque the stock parts up to spec
Austin, I have the Jim's tool/tap/and helicoil for worst-case complete repair if you want to borrow it, sucks to hear about ANOTHER problem with that lemon of a bike... I remember when you told me you got that exhaust and I was so jealous! Guess I'll be sticking with my D&D now.
As for stud removal if there is any part still out you have 3 options... 1.) You can take a dremel and cut off wheel and cut a notch in it apply propane flame to it then try and back it out with a flat head. 2.) If even 1 thread is left you can put a nut on it and weld the nut to the stud in the center, apply heat and back it out. 3.) Apply heat, get a steel spacer as a guide and slip it over the remaining stud and use an easy out to back it out.
You may be able to get away with just rotating the motor for the broken rear stud instead of a full removal, should only be about 30-40 min to rotate it.
Last edited by lowkey; 04-27-2017 at 03:09 AM. Reason: More info
I'll most definitely do the rotation. Is there a good thread on that? Reading through the manual makes it seem like at least a couple hours. Also, completely unrelated, are all of the fuel lines for the Xb series the same? The one on my Ulysses broke and I have a spare from a firebolt
engine rotate DIY http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthr...ine-With-Pics!
It's really simple just put a jack under the front of the case, undo the clutch line from the lever and the clutch guide from the front motor mount. Undo the 3 black support bar bolts on the underside of the frame. Undo the bolt holding the top dog bone support bar over rear cylinder and one bolt on the rear dog bone support under the frame on the right. Go in and pull all harness plugs under the air box, don't forget the injectors! Undo the 10mm nut holding the throttle body wheel. You are ready to rotate from here so start backing the big bolt from the front engine mount out watching to make sure nothing gets snagged or missed along the way, lower the jack as you back the bolt out. The front cylinder should rest on the front tire or the jack whichever goes lower. Oh and remove the belt!
Things I skip compared to the DIY:
I just put slack in the clutch adjuster and pull the cable from the lever
I leave the fuel line/wiring connected
I don't pull the exhaust
I don't pull the belt wheel/guide
I leave the dog bone to frame bolt in
I don't see him say about throttle cables but I wouldn't chance it, easy to mess them up if you don't look after them good
I cut the zip tie for idle adjuster
I pull the coil but leave the cables on the plugs (probably not needed, should clear just fine with it on)
I don't take out the TPS, the wires are short and there is a plug between the injectors you can disconnect
As for the fuel lines, I just bought one and if I remember the PN is listed for all XB's, what year is the Ulysses? Nice buy BTW! When are you going to head out to AZ?
Last edited by lowkey; 04-27-2017 at 04:24 AM.
2009 uly and have a 2009 firebolt line, should work? I could just compare them, easy enough to take off. What do you mean by "3 black support bar bolts"?
Won't be for another 2-3 months, we're building a completely new vehicle!
Last edited by 303frost; 04-27-2017 at 04:36 AM.
What part broke? Was it the clips at the fuel rail? If so look here http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthr...l=1#post584355 where I repair the line, there is just enough slack in the line to do this once! Check the PN and you can probably get it at your local auto parts store in stock!
The bolts holding the 3 steel bars to the aluminum frame, from the front cylinder it looks like a "V" then one runs above the primary cover to the rear of the aluminum frame. If still confused you can see them in the DIY I posted.
As for the fuel line they are all the same all years http://www.twinmotorcycles.com/websh...&mc=1&aid=3103
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