Reply With QuoteBeautiful pictures guys!
Comes at the price of rain and gloom! Not sure what's best at this point, dry and brown or wet and green.Originally Posted by TPEHAK
That's why people move up north to evergreen state.
Beautiful pictures guys!
Comes at the price of rain and gloom! Not sure what's best at this point, dry and brown or wet and green.
Back in the shop and the clutch rattle that seems to be getting louder was my focus of attention today. I wanted to check the torque on the clutch hub nut and I figured it's a good time to check out the condition of the clutch (at 6k miles) since some of you crazy peeps have been wearing them out, and to dispel some of the myth of the quick shifter as well.
They are really good!
I believe 46.3mm is minimum for the clutch stack
7OKg9ofDTR2STgGsQMhJHA by Cooter!, on Flickr
Steels aren't blue at all
XAXcqPpUQZGIOYNzdUwE8Q by Cooter!, on Flickr
The nut was plenty tight, and had it's red loctite on it. Not bad for #24 built haha.
ddIANnlYQ0iq2A3rTxQNMQ by Cooter!, on Flickr
But of course you can't take it off without stopping the inner clutch hub from rotating, and that takes a clutch tool. I have one, now where did i put it? Hmmm...
Oh ya! I sent it to a forum member (maybe not even this forum...) a long time ago and I guess I never got it back. I have since cleaned out my PM's so theres really no recourse. That sucks and all, but now the bike is apart and it's too early for beer.
I'm undecided whether I should be proud or ashamed...
envERi%7RR6NTfhkeoDeqg by Cooter!, on Flickr
Lets go with proud, because it worked flawlessly!lQNxgP%FTn6m%f0Gm6TMiw by Cooter!, on Flickr
If you decide to be as dangerous as I am with a welder, I'll expect my royalty check in the mail promptly!
An important note: If you decide to do this, remember you are NOT clamping the fragile aluminum hub AT ALL with the vice grips. Close them just barely hard enough to stay shut. You are simply stopping it from rotating, so the tabs need to be straight and fit in the slots well.
I even used the slots near the extra casting to be sure i wouldn't warp it. Stuff gets expensive in here real quick...
So now that I have successfully re-torqued the Clutch hub nut to 150ft/lbs instead of the factory recommended 125 (whatever, man), and happy with the condition of the clutch time for an easy re-assembly.
EBR has conveniently labeled all the stuff for the slipper clutch (ya I know it's not the Suter) with "out" on the correct side, so re-assembly is easy. Except.
The Diaphragm has "tuo" on the wrong side.
vQtdB0QpQMeNGCq2Ju+bcQ by Cooter!, on Flickr
KWq3vaI9Q4ip+GyJbxmhbA by Cooter!, on Flickr
I wasn't too stumped, (and it only really fits one way anyway. But I thought I'd mention it.
So on to easy re-assembly!
Pa-TING! Crap...
IMG_3683 by Cooter!, on Flickr
Is it time for that beer yet? Grrrr... Seriously just running the long bolt down and blam! There the spring, now wheres the stepped washer? It sure ain't a hardware store item...
5 mins, 10 mins, 15 mins, oh there it is..
FcKpCUUkTQa9LRMcBhMvBQ by Cooter!, on Flickr
This town does not have an auto parts store. Seriously. Pathetic.
What they do have is an awesome True Value that's been here forever and has a totally legit fastener room.
M6/1.0-45mm in case you were wondering.
IMG_3684 by Cooter!, on Flickr
I'm not taking a chance with the rest of the OEM hardware.
A little punch
YNDfnuLRQMCefnQCK+xAuA by Cooter!, on Flickr
I'm not much for kissing guys, but if it was a man that invented Left-hand drill bits, come on over and get ready for a smooch. You too "red cup" guy....
fBv%57nPRWur8loUlLTorA by Cooter!, on Flickr
I little drilly drill drill and she spun right out.
%N5ckn+kRSSaUw5q1%UnmQ by Cooter!, on Flickr
ri+dwSysSd6GH3+4UdxMfA by Cooter!, on Flickr
A little chasey chase chase. I didn't use a tap, I'm not trying to make new threads, just see if theres a burr or something.
mu7w65mmTVqGPEjV8nbnWw by Cooter!, on Flickr
Done! Just in time to take my hot alien out to dinner. You DON'T want to make her angry!
images by Cooter!, on Flickr
Did you overtorque it? I would order the replacement screw on McMaster with the maximal yield strength I can find there.
Last edited by TPEHAK; 05-08-2018 at 05:43 AM.
I really don't think so? I was just loosely turning it down. I hadn't even got out the inch/lb wrench yet!
It broke super, super easy, I think I avoided an expensive problem. If the head would have snapped inside, I doubt I'd have known until it and the spring, and the heavy stepped washer rattled around or even punctured the coverLots of spinny stuff in there.
The new ones are grade 8.8, just like the OEM, except zinc coated as you can see. I'd hesitate to just get a harder (10.9) bolt because they are more brittle. The amount of vibration and fatigue down there must be massive so I'll be confident in the engineers solution and not try to out think those very smart people.
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