Front wheel bearing...

[Mech-life]

Got the old bearings out, new ones are going in without issue, except that I can't get the spacer to seat and get tight.

Anyone have any tips?

Edit: the left side is going flush, and the right side stI'll sticks up a small amount and I can't get it to seat it seems.

[Silverrider]

To late now , But I put them in the deep freezer over nite, at this point you can use a large socket to pound/tap it in, till it hits bottom and it will sound solid at that point. Or once you torque the axle in at the specs it should seat better.

[squidbuellie]

Don't worry about it. As long as you cleaned the rim before you put the bearings in. Depending on what bearing you put in you might have a .032 lip. I like to mic the bearings old and new.
I've have had old red cover nsk bearings a different size then the black bearings and a totally different size with blue all balls.
Best bet is to over tighten your axle then back it out then snug it and call it a day.

[Mech-life]

Ok. Thanks. I have replaced red/orange ones with the blue all balls. I have both seated the entire wayear now. I reinstalled them a few times. Was sure how critical the axle spacer was.

[user_deleted]

what alex said above spot-on. both XB front and rear rims are beautifully designed in that each bearing pocket has a "floor" that each bearing seats against. i never ever use a press. reason being if you drive the bearings in by hand you can both hear and feel each bearing seating on the "floor". regarding the spacer there is virtually no allowance for wear on either end and there should not be any if bearings always properly installed as the spacer and L&R inner races are locked in place when the axle is torqued to specs. the trick to proper spacer alignment is to install one side first and fit the axle thru that side. now flip the wheel over...drop the spacer in over the axle.....install the bearing on this side....and using a long dedicated bearing driver OR the old bearing and a long deep socket....drive in that bearing. the axle holds all in alignment and the bearing seats properly. some pre-freeze both bearings and heat the hub to make assembly easier. i just lightly lube the oute shell of each bearing and use the old bearing/deep socket/heavy mallet method.

[Mech-life]

Lunatic, I did exactly that. I used the old bearing and socket. I heard and felt each job time it was seated. As of right now, bothasn't bearings are installed, front wheel on, axle installed. All I am waiting on is a buddy to lend me his TQ wrench (my brother broke mine) and I will TQ the caliper, axle, and set screws? Are those called set screws, lock bolts?

Still waiting on the new rear bearings to arrive. Any tricks to removing the rear ones? Tried same method a bit but no luck. Only had a few mins to try. Tomorrow is another day. Currently working on tail chop and breather re-route...

[squidbuellie]

On the front and rear I just tighten the axle till I feel pressure of the axle bottoming out then tighten it a quarter turn, tighten the pinch bolts and call it a day

THE MAIN THING IS....
make sure you use anti seize on the axle...

And I don't know if you mentioned how you removed your last set, but I use a bearing puller then with the spacer out I stick a socket with a extension on it and hit it with a dead blow. Just make sure your scocket is a little bigger then the axle and don't hit the casting. If they are stuck, stuck weld a washer to the bearing then do the scocket trick.

Oh and also I use loclite on the caliber.... I don't care what anyone has to say.

[Cooter]

X2 anti-sieze and don't over-torque the axle or pinch bolts. I think those are the most commonly ruined parts from meat handed people next to drain plugs of course...

Also X2 on loctite for the caliper bolts, but Blue only. Red is only for stuff that NEVER needs to be removed again. Use ONLY the good stuff, that Harbor freight crap is exactly that...

[squidbuellie]

IMG_1108.jpgAnd just a heads up.. I'm talking from experience..IMG_1109.jpg
Let one of the guys at the shop change the front pads on the 150hp fxr/Buell and while canyon carving lost both bolts and beat the **** out of my nice black forks

[user_deleted]

Still waiting on the new rear bearings to arrive. Any tricks to removing the rear ones? Tried same method a bit but no luck.

again....both alex and shaughn outstanding with advice and recommendations.
though a dedicated bearing puller is always nice to remove these bearings, there's an old school method for working around that. note that XB rear wheel bearing removal has stumped many a fine mechanic thru the decades. here's a tried and proven "no-cost" method that works like a champ:
1-get yourself a long piece of straight tool steel....16-18 inches in length.....and minimum of 1/2" OD. by tool steel i mean a metal rod that you can put an "edge" onto and it will hold that edge.
2-make sure one end is perfectly flat. now file the surface till the outer edge is virtually razor sharp. you're looking for a perfectly flat pristine complete surface.
3-with rear rim on flat floor insert the steel rod you fashioned as per above steps approx. three-quarters (3/4)of the way thru the wheel hub. WEAR GLOVES! now give the end of the rod that you're holding several hard wacks with a heavy mallet. USE COMMON SENSE HERE. remove rod. you will now be able to reach into the hub with your fingers and feel that the inner spacer is slightly loose. you will also be able to look into the hub with flashlight and see that the inner race of the opposite side bearing has now been exposed. NOW simply place suitable pieces of wood under the rim to raise it a few inches off the floor.....reinsert the rod into the hub.....and you will be able to feel and see the rod end engage the inner race. simply wack the end of the rod with a heavy mallet and out pops the bearing. this method tried and true for all cycle wheel bearings and as simple as i can possibly make it.