Reply With QuoteOriginally Posted by 34nineteen
Hahahaha, for sure! The bike is on jack stands now, getting some new rubbers! .... but that would be pretty funny/bad.
You're on the right track for sure
At that relay socket, you can test the entire electrical circuit for the starter. Test terminals #30 and #87. On one (usually #30) you should have battery voltage (+12.5V), that means the other on goes right to the starter solenoid. Make sure you are in neutral and jumper (10ga wire) from the battery (+) to that terminal to see if the bike cranks. Yes? jumper between #30 and #87. Yes? test the next circuit.
If no, keep the jumper on that wire and test for battery voltage at the starter solonoids small wire (of the three). Yes? test both the big wires at the starter, you should have voltage at BOTH of them. One goes straight to the battery, the other powers the starter. voltage at both, Yes? replace the starter. No voltage? check the battery (+) cable.
The other circuit to test is the button side (#85 and #86). On side should be ground (grounded through both the neutral safety switch AND the clutch switch at the lever), the other side should show battery voltage when you press the yellow button. No ground? jumper the clutch switch and re-test. No power on the other terminal? There is a 4 pin connector under the windscreen that feeds the right hand controls. Test the wire from the switch (Black-red stripe(?)) I believe theres power there because your runswitch uses the same supply and activates the pump.
You have done a fine job with details, and that helps diagnosis considerably, Thank you
Let me know exactly what you found with those tests and your bike will be fixed by the next post.
Hahahaha, for sure! The bike is on jack stands now, getting some new rubbers! .... but that would be pretty funny/bad.
You're on the right track for sure
At that relay socket, you can test the entire electrical circuit for the starter. Test terminals #30 and #87. On one (usually #30) you should have battery voltage (+12.5V), that means the other on goes right to the starter solenoid. Make sure you are in neutral and jumper (10ga wire) from the battery (+) to that terminal to see if the bike cranks. Yes? jumper between #30 and #87. Yes? test the next circuit.
If no, keep the jumper on that wire and test for battery voltage at the starter solonoids small wire (of the three). Yes? test both the big wires at the starter, you should have voltage at BOTH of them. One goes straight to the battery, the other powers the starter. voltage at both, Yes? replace the starter. No voltage? check the battery (+) cable.
The other circuit to test is the button side (#85 and #86). On side should be ground (grounded through both the neutral safety switch AND the clutch switch at the lever), the other side should show battery voltage when you press the yellow button. No ground? jumper the clutch switch and re-test. No power on the other terminal? There is a 4 pin connector under the windscreen that feeds the right hand controls. Test the wire from the switch (Black-red stripe(?)) I believe theres power there because your runswitch uses the same supply and activates the pump.
You have done a fine job with details, and that helps diagnosis considerably, Thank you
Let me know exactly what you found with those tests and your bike will be fixed by the next post.
Just printed this out, thank you for this!! This explanation with the PDF diagram makes perfect sense, it is a really simple circuit. I will follow up with diagnosis and details and hope to have it starting before I my Pilot 2CT's are delivered! This good weather is giving me that itch to ride so bad.
Cooter... thank you for the help, I was seriously trying to over complicate things (used to working on old German auto stuff) !
So I found the problem and it was the LAST thing I checked of course... I just thought there was no way that a simple contact switch would be the fault!
Checked both circuits at the relay...
1- Checked "starter leg of the circuit" going to the starter solenoid... pin # 30(+12V) and pin #87. I made a jumper with male ends and then jumped these together at the relay socket. Solenoid engaged and bike fired! CHECK
2- Checked "starting signal circuit GROUND" coming from the clutch-safety switch and the neutral safety switch.. bike in neutral I get good ground! CHECK
3- Checked "starting signal circuit (+12V)" coming from the yellow start button on right handle bar controls. With the DMM grounded to pin #86 (safety switch ground) and stuck in pin #85 (yellow button +12v signal) and when I pressed the yellow start button I got +12v!!
...wait a second, then bike should crank unless the stupid relay is bad... checked relay... NO the relay is good... WHAT the crap. I am getting +12v signal to the coil on the relay, it should switch the pin #87 and give +12v to the starter solenoid!
4- Re-check the "starting signal circuit (+12v)" from yellow botton... this time DDM grounded to battery, still getting +12V to pin #85, check again grounded to the safety circuit pin #86... still getting +12v when I press the yellow button... wth
5- So I grab jumper again and jump +12v signal to pin #85 this time with the relay in the socket.... bike fires up!
So the +12v signal coming from the yellow button was too weak to charge the coil of the relay and pull in pin #87 for solenoid. I thought it must be a loose connection at the 4-pin controls on the handle bar... nope....
It was the yellow switch itself... a tiny little spider had build a nice little dense web and there was corrosion all over the contact post. I cleaned it up and used a brass brush to clean the contact and corrosion. Problem solved! Thanks for all of the help ya'll. Now with the new neutral safety switch I have neutral light on gauges and starting system is working the way it should! Have to mount some new tires and get some seat time!!!!
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Last edited by TheycallmeSpaz; 04-27-2017 at 01:45 PM.
Good, Glad you found it. You need itty bitty fingers to get all that stuff back in the right placeHave fun riding
Awesome!!!!
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