Forks leaking from top now!?

[TheyCallMe]

Guys... I just had my fork seals replaced at a local shop and now it's making a hissing noise from the top every time the shocks are compressed. To make matters worse oil is actually coming out from the top as well. The nut is pretty messed up and it looks like they rounded of the edges trying to get it off... What the heck is going on? How do I fix this?

[34nineteen]

There are oring seals inside the fork cap preload assembly, as well as orings around the preload cap. Have you checked to determine which ones are leaking?

I'm assuming you have the earlier style fork, not the later style ones.

Here's a thread where someone is rebuilding the his forks. You can see 2 of the 3 seals. There is one more that lives inside the cap.

http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/me...42/249047.html


These forks are very basic to service. A shop that is selling services to rebuild forks should have a specific set of sockets (even if they have to modify them) to remove the fork caps. Regular sockets have a built in taper at the tip to help guide a socket on a fastener, but that taper can compromise the purchase on a low profile socket like a fork top cap.

You should be able to replace those seals without tearing the forks back down or removing them from the bike (if youre careful).

Heres a video of our good pal AZMidget working on his. The first part of this covers removing the top caps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FptHgvIhO4&t=1143s

[34nineteen]

If you have the newer black forks, the assembly may be different (they look different). Haven't worked on a set of those yet.

[Cooter]

Sounds like they messed up the job pretty badly. Post a pic of the top cap, or give a least some info about you bike!

Before attempting to loosen, tighten, or remove the fork caps, first loosen the spring pre-load bolts completely. You must have the bike suspended so the forks are extended (no front wheel stand unless its one that goes in the bottom of the steering neck) and you must loosen the upper triple clamp pinch bolts. Expect the cap to pop off a little from the spring pressure when its completely removed for inspection.
Were they tightened all the way?
Are the threads OK?
Is the O-ring ok?
Is the fork oil still at the proper level for whatever bike you own (and didn't describe)??

[lowkey]

Do not mess with them or you will be on your own as far as the shop is concerned... take them back off and back to the shop and have them fix the torn O-ring they damaged when resembling the forks you PAID them to work on. While at the shop express your feelings on their work and the treatment of top cap nut along with sending you out the door with improperly serviced forks possibly injuring you or killing you. If such simple things were neglected, I would have no confidence in them doing the job right... the damper rods for example need to be set exactly the same from the left fork leg to the right or damping can never be adjusted properly and tire wear will be seen. Have a look through the shop manual to familiarize yourself in what is involved in the procedure so you can make sure the work was done right, better yet print it and give it to the shop so there is no excuse. Also your fork leaked oil so now the level needs to be topped off. These are an open bath design and the damper rod is attached to the top cap, you aren't going to just back the cap off and replace the O-ring on it.

[34nineteen]

Do not mess with them or you will be on your own as far as the shop is concerned... take them back off and back to the shop and have them fix the torn O-ring they damaged when resembling the forks you PAID them to work on. While at the shop express your feelings on their work and the treatment of top cap nut along with sending you out the door with improperly serviced forks possibly injuring you or killing you. If such simple things were neglected, I would have no confidence in them doing the job right... the damper rods for example need to be set exactly the same from the left fork leg to the right or damping can never be adjusted properly and tire wear will be seen. Have a look through the shop manual to familiarize yourself in what is involved in the procedure so you can make sure the work was done right, better yet print it and give it to the shop so there is no excuse. Also your fork leaked oil so now the level needs to be topped off. These are an open bath design and the damper rod is attached to the top cap, you aren't going to just back the cap off and replace the O-ring on it.

I agree, except if that shop butchered up those caps they way I read it, I'd be hesistant to bring it back.


Cooter makes a great point, if you choose to dive into this... make sure the bike is suspended before you pull the fork caps, and loosening the upper pinch bolts is a very good idea.

[34nineteen]

Do not mess with them or you will be on your own as far as the shop is concerned... take them back off and back to the shop and have them fix the torn O-ring they damaged when resembling the forks you PAID them to work on. While at the shop express your feelings on their work and the treatment of top cap nut along with sending you out the door with improperly serviced forks possibly injuring you or killing you. If such simple things were neglected, I would have no confidence in them doing the job right... the damper rods for example need to be set exactly the same from the left fork leg to the right or damping can never be adjusted properly and tire wear will be seen. Have a look through the shop manual to familiarize yourself in what is involved in the procedure so you can make sure the work was done right, better yet print it and give it to the shop so there is no excuse. Also your fork leaked oil so now the level needs to be topped off. These are an open bath design and the damper rod is attached to the top cap, you aren't going to just back the cap off and replace the O-ring on it.

Your pic looks like the later model fork caps?

I'm not sure of the disassembly process on that setup. On the earlier one, you can pull the cap and preload adjuster without messing with the rebound shaft... if you're careful.

[TPEHAK]

That is why I maintain my motorcycle on my own. I would not trust them even oil change. Maybe tire change is the only thing I would ask someone, but only because of I do not have appropriate tools and I will remove and place the wheel back again on my own.

If you do not have tools to maintain the fork just remove the fork from motorcycle and bring them it, at least they won't damage something else.

[TheyCallMe]

thanks for the replies guys. All of them were very helpful. Here's an update... It's been over a month and the problem still remains. I have been calling the shop and taking the bike back multiple times. They got a new oring set for it and put it in but its still leaking. Problem is the whole nut is warped and bent (its not longer round so that the oring seals when it slides inside it). They are now ordering that part. So far the shop has not charged me anything extra. Im hoping it stays that way as its pretty obvious this is their error...