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Thread: Rear Shock Service/Re-build

  1. #31
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I'm totally against ghetto suspension fab.
    And I totally agree with what Silver said.

    No matter what do NOT modify the shock until you are CERTAIN it is stock dimension and you really want to lower the rear past where the factory wanted it. Upsetting the balance of the bike, increasing the rake, and drastically changing the handling (usually not for the better).

  2. #32
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I'm totally against ghetto suspension fab.
    And I totally agree with what Silver said.

    No matter what do NOT modify the shock until you are CERTAIN it is stock dimension and you really want to lower the rear past where the factory wanted it. Upsetting the balance of the bike, increasing the rake, and drastically changing the handling (usually not for the better).
    Very well worded thx !

  3. #33
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    Finally removed the shock, measured it eye to eye and it is about 37mm, so the shock is not any longer than stock which I believe is 14.8" (37.59cm). Checked out the preloader and it appears to be all the way seated and installed to the retaining ring on the shock body. Also measured both of my heels are 2.5 inches off the ground after the rebuild, before the rebuild I was nearly flat footing or at least within an inch or less of flat footing. Maybe I am shrinking? Thanks Silverrider, that maybe an option? Not sure what is going on, but will be bringing the shock back to the rebuilder as well as the 15mm spring plate. Unless he can find something wrong with the shock I think the best option. The rebuilder's solution was to add a spacer on the top out bushing, to me that would change the travel of the shock so I think that is a bad idea and now that I know the shock length is correct more of a bad idea. The only other option I think is good would be a shorter spring. With the plate or shorter spring I think I will be able to possibly add shims to the spring plate to tweak the Height if I need to?
    Last edited by Tbone; 09-05-2017 at 01:39 PM.

  4. #34
    Senior Member mmcn49's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by not1044 View Post
    Newcastle has them listed at $321.40 plus shipping. Sounds like for an extra $60 or so to get the Racetech treatment is a fair deal.

    What was the name of the shop that did your rebuild and how was their turn around time?
    Hi not1044, Can you Newcastle's link. Thanks

  5. #35
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    Is there a chance the shock rebuilder changed the spring itself? If your stock spring was too light for your weight, a proper weight matched spring would reduce your sag dramatically while leaving the unladen shock length as-stock. That could explain it.

  6. #36
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    Hello Fatty SS, It sounds crazy but it is the original spring? I went back to the re-builder and he took the spring off and we could see the Pre-loader was installed correctly, as it seats directly on a lock ring on the shock body as well. He installed a Tecnium 15mm extended spring plate creating more sag and lowering the bike under my weight about 1.5inches. The only other thing that was changed was the comfort kit fan shroud which I added, everything else is stock. I may have shrunk or lost a lot of weight? Today was my first ride with the plate on it and now it is closer or the same height it was before the rebuild. So far the ride is very different from stock and time will tell if it was worth it as I get used to it?

  7. #37
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    20170918_120104[1].jpg Here is a pic of the plate installed on the shock.

  8. #38
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    This is such a weird situation. I'm happy he took a look again, at least nothing obvious is wrong and it got to the height you like I hope you're not getting shorter! haha.

    You say it rides very differently. How, specifically? Or do you mean handles differently?
    I'm a little concerned it's banging off the bump stop That would be bad. Put a thin zip tie around the shock shaft and see how far the shock is compressing after a normal to hard ride (no jumping!)

    If it's handling weirdly, you might have to lower the forks to match the sub-stock height you have now. That could mean shorter springs (perhaps from a stock S?) shorter spring spacers (chop saw), or maybe pull off the c-clips and slide the forks up the triples if you have room for that to the bars?

  9. #39
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    Yes to both, handling and ride are both different. The rear end is very stable and does not move much under throttle and braking or sag much when I sit my 211lbs (prolly 230lbs with gear) on it, which is why I added the plate so I am not on my toes as much and the height is about the same as before. It is weird that even with this new plate it still does not sag much. My wife just had hernia surgery so she is not going to be a pillion for a while, maybe I can get her just to sit on the Uly to see how much it sags. Handling on the bike stock had a lot of rocking horse motion, so when cornering it was very sensitive to throttle input and would easily shift the weight to the rear tire by twisting the throttle. Now accelerating in the corner the front feels heavier, so I increased the pre-load in the forks to 5 turns total to balance the front and rear more. The ride also feels a lot different, does not have that Uly cushiness, but is very reactive with good rebound and is comfortable on a rough road. On a smooth road it is a little choppy feeling, not much though. On any road I get a lot more feed back through the bike and does not feel like it is any where near bottoming out. I will try to get a cable tie on the rear shock rod to see how much sag there is under just the bike weight and rider weight? Cooter I also see some lines on the fork tubes above the top yolk, it appears these are marks for raising the front end and I may try that as well to lighten the front wheel with less than 5 turns on the front pre-load?
    Last edited by Tbone; 09-18-2017 at 08:53 PM.

  10. #40
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    Well I raised the ride height on the front to the top ring on the fork tube, about 6mm, left all other settings the same. There is nothing in the owners manual about this ring, and there were 2 rings visible when the tube was installed up to the lock ring. Will check the shop manual tonight. Anyways I am glad to say she is grabbing the corners now, and I am scraping the soles of my boots. May raise the front a few more mm in the future if the fork feels like it tops out I can lower the front pre-load down from 5 turns. Currently the fork sags 1 inch with bike weight only, and over 2 inches with rider on it so statically it is ok, but the proof is always in how it handles on a gnarly road.



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