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Thread: tuning / race map help

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc83 View Post
    can you or anyone possibly take a look at this file on MLV and lmk what you think. Currently this is kinda beyond me to comprehend what is really going on.
    The ECM is adding ~10-15% fuel in just about all areas that you logged. Even idle, which is closed loop, was quite lean. I wouldn't expect stock vs aftermarket exhaust or air filter to affect the idle fueling that much. If I were in your position, I would check for any intake leaks, and load the stock eeprom image and re-test.

    Looking at a datalog alone isn't enough to confirm if your maps are stock or not.

  2. #12
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    Thanks readyxb, alot for taking the time to check out that log!! that's what I was worried about. Race maps way too rich, stock map too lean. Checking for leaks what's best to use? Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, wd40 etc? Could the only thing to cause this issue be a INTAKE leak?
    or are their other leaks i should check for as well?

    Thanks!!
    Last edited by Marc83; 08-18-2017 at 12:15 PM.

  3. #13
    If a leak would provide 10% too much air, then idle speed would go through the roof, as the leak would not get smaller with dropping rpms.

  4. #14
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    Idle speed? Please elaborate. For instance setting the TPS, would needing to adjust near 5.8 to get to 1050-1150 rpm be an example of what your speaking of? Or do you mean my idle speed at idle will just continue to rise?

  5. #15
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    im just really confused as to whats going on. With a race map, its super rich, dipping to 80s-low 90s. stock its 110 in all ranges including my idle.
    gonna test for the leak when i get home, and re-load my stock map and test again.

  6. #16
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    How are you doing the TPS reset, if done wrong all sorts of odd behavior can happen.

  7. #17
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    Tps reset I do as follows. Back it out til it reads 0. Back out an additional full turn. Snap throttle 3 times. Reset. Adjust to 5.8. Ride around a bit and adjust the idle to 1050-1100.

    It's weird I noticed on the race map it took me adjusting it down to about 4.8 to get my idle to settle to around 1050 but on the stock map around 5.5ish. Is their normally a difference like this between maps?

  8. #18
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    The service manual recommends propane for intake leak detection. But reading what you said about the AFV with the "race" map (I missed that part earlier), then it doesn't add up. Can't hurt to rule that out, though. Unfortunately, "race map" doesn't mean anything useful to me

    One question about the datalog. It showed that your engine was at normal operating temperature/fully warmed up. I just wanted to be sure that was actually the case - that the temperature sensor readings were accurate.

    I would really try to get a true stock eeprom image loaded, which as you said may not necessarily have been what was in the ECM when you purchased the bike. And if the bike drives ok, get as long of a datalog session as you can that covers cold start to fully warmed up.

    There are some smart folks on the forum (such as Gunter and others that have chimed in). You've provided good details so far. Just keep in mind, all we have to go on is what you share with us!

  9. #19
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    I tried testing the leak with carb cleaner. it was all i had on hand with out running to the store. Made my idle rise briefly and then drop a couple hundred below 1050 for a few seconds before it started idling consistent again. i do have a full gasket set for the whole engine so i may take the TB off and inspect the gaskets.

    Yes the temp was fully warmed up, i turned it on about half way through a hour ride. i do have a longer data log which ill provide the link to, but this one i was worried i logged it too soon after reflashing the map, so i wasnt sure if the ECM was done learning.

    on a side note, my bike does seem to have a small stumble even with the stock map. No where nearly as bad as the race map where it would stall and only start while applying throttle. Now it drops about 100-200 rpm about every 10-15 seconds. maybe normal, im just nor 100% sure. Also, with my TPS, the last few times i have reset it, i have noticed that once i do the actual reset on ECM Droid, and adjust it to 5-6 after zeroing it out, i dont have to adjust it any further, even after its been warmed up. Thought this was weird as i used to have to dial it down a bit once she warmed up.

    i greatly appreciate everyones feedback, you guys ROCK!
    Last edited by Marc83; 08-19-2017 at 05:03 PM.

  10. #20
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    Marc83, Buy one of these cameras and you can have a look at the intake seals through the throttle body opening https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=1UT98RNQG9315 It's never a bad idea to change them for piece of mind but the camera will also help make sure they are seated when replacing for new ones as well. Cometic or James "blue" gaskets are good choices!

    Something of note you say AFV was 110 with the Race/stock Hybrid files I sen't you huh? This is the same as you would get if you bought a "race" ECM so that is a total of 29% off from what your AFV was reading on another "race" tune before right? Makes no since...

    Post the exact file you were running before and maybe the one you think is your stock one as well, If I find time I'll have a look for discrepancies.



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