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Thread: ignition issue

  1. #1
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    ignition issue

    Got a question for yall. I have an 07 xb9r and I was researching on here as to figure out a battery draw that I was having. With all fuses in I was reading about 0.68 DC Amp draw. When I went through to remove fuses I found out that when I pulled the ignition fuse it went down to 0.18 DC Amp draw (while having a Fluke 27 placed inline from negative battery cable to the negative post on the battery). I've read and been told by a coworker that owns a XB and an 1125 that this should be the right amount of battery draw on my bike. The relays and fuses on my bike are all brand new and have continuity throughout the relays and no broken fuses.... And I have went over the main wiring harness and have not found any chaffed or damaged wiring. My question is if I go through and remove the ignition and clean it out, should I also look at anything else?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    I can't think of anything other than the ground connections at the headstock/steering stem area, right behind the headlights.

    Have you performed any recent electrical mods?

  3. #3
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    great pick-up carlos on the mods. if not then see below.


    typical XB static parasitic draw with fully charged battery and NO mods to bike whatsoever is approx. 100 milliamps which is 1/10th of an amp or 0.100 amps DC. you sir are at approx. 7X that amount. a draw of your magnitude will kill the battery in short order.
    see attached schematics. place the ignition blade fuse back in its proper locale. now with multi-meter in place as you originally used it.....remove the ignition relay. has the parasitic draw dropped back to normal? if so relay is guilty culprit....replace it.
    if not in all likelihood it's a faulty ignition switch.683749.jpg
    6369_20110815134039_L.jpg
    Last edited by user_deleted; 08-29-2017 at 12:51 PM.

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Boom. The experts have spoken, nothing to see here... move along

    This is the way a thread is supposed to go! "You will only ever get an answer that is as good as the question asked" Some smart guy said that OP started with a proper diagnosis, included pertinent information in his post, asked a specific question! and bam... got Fantastic advise.

    You should find your problem easily if you use it. Pleas post up here what you find

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    So I managed some time to remove the ignition cylinder from the triple tree and disconnected the plug. Opened all the plastic that I was able to without disrupting or destroying the key cylinder itself. Noticed that there was a small amount of corrosion on the contacting surfaces inside and a very small amount of dried up rust water sitting on the internal plastic surfaces. All was cleaned up using a toothbrush and some QD Electronic Cleaner and packed with some Dielectric Grease. Will be placing it back into the back today hopefully and testing it again.

    Chicknstripn - only mods I have on it are 1 - a volt meter wired onto the battery bolts (but didn't have them in place for when I was testing it) 2 - I have a small switch placed into the main wire harness for a kill switch to the fuel pump . Debating if I should go thru and remove the switch and see if that changes anything on the battery draw. I will also be rechecking the grounds behind the headlight area since I haven't checked that in a few weeks since I last was able to ride her before my daughter came along.
    lunaticfringe - I will give that a shot, didn't think to remove the relay(s) and check the battery draw on the Fluke. If I do check and find that the relay does not change anything with the battery draw from 0.18 Amp DC, would there be anything else you would recommend to check on? Haven't found anything wrong with the wiring

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    lunaticfringe - I will give that a shot, didn't think to remove the relay(s) and check the battery draw on the Fluke. If I do check and find that the relay does not change anything with the battery draw from 0.18 Amp DC, would there be anything else you would recommend to check on? Haven't found anything wrong with the wiring

    follow my steps and start by removing ignition relay as mentioned. no amps change? reinstall and go to the next relay...then the 3rd relay. clearly the ignition fuse is only related to the ignition relay circuitry but just do this simple test with each relay while your meter is connected and you're testing. let me know what you come up with. several components on the ignition relay circuitry as per below schematic to include pump, red run switch, ignition switch. but start with relay test for sake of simplicity. but i'd start with the simplest and check relay as mentioned. see below.
    683749.jpg
    Last edited by user_deleted; 08-30-2017 at 12:18 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    [COLOR="#0000FF"]no ohms change?
    683749.jpg
    Do you mean Amps? Or look at the resistance as well?

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    i meant DC AMPS.

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    A switch wired in series (like your fuel pump kill switch) cannot cause a draw. The circuit would have to be completed between positive and ground in order to have current flow, which is what you are measuring.

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    Went through the testing again today while on lunch. Cleaned and greased key switch reinstalled into the bike, still drawing about 0.68A DC, but pulling the key switch fuse is making it drop to 0.18A DC.... unplugging the key switch from the wire harness has no change and stays at 0.68A with the fuse in place.... stripped the insulation around the key switch wires and saw no damage. going to try and test continuity of each of the four wires later tonight or by monday afternoon depending on work...



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