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Thread: Primary Chain Adjustment Question

  1. #21
    Senior Member GregoXB's Avatar
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    So this is what I gotta aim for:

    Primary chain.png

    I gave myself 1 inch of play on my first adjustment. So my chain has too much slop in it and that is causing the knock that I hear.

    Thank you gentlemen for your time and patience. Your expertise is most appreciated and I am in awe of your knowledge. I apologize for my infantile understanding of the process and I am very grateful to have been taught something. Have a good weekend.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I go a little old skool with this adjustment.

    With the bike idling in neutral, I back off the adjuster until you hear the noise get louder (rackety noise, it's obvious), then tighten slowly. You will hear it get quiet and then louder again (a more of a buzzing noise, still obvious) then back off 1/2 that distance.

    IMO, it eliminates the question of tight spots in the primary chain and it's really fast and easy to do. I check them after JIC, but have always been within spec after adjusting that way. YMMV
    Thanks for this bit of advice Cooter!

    I had the hardest time finding neutral on my XB9. Tried the clutch adjustment, primary oil level, primary chain tension by measurement without much luck.
    But doing it dynamically with the engine running was what finally did the trick!

    Rides like a charm now. My clutch hand thanks you!

  3. #23
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Cool! Glad it worked out for ya

  4. #24
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    Cooter,

    Is the bike just on the kickstand when you do the primary adjustment this way ?

  5. #25
    Senior Member Endopotential's Avatar
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    I suppose you could do it with kickstand, but it is a little harder fiddling with the tension nuts with the bike tilted to its left side.

    My bike also vibrates so much at idle that I wouldn't trust my kickstand to not shake loose and crush me while I'm on that side. I felt a bit safer using a rear wheel lift/stand.

    It goes without saying that for anyone using this method, make sure you don't accidentally shift it into gear while engine is running and rear wheel is lifted.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    NJ, you could do it on the kickstand easily, it's a >5 minute job.

    I'll just stick mine on the stand or the lift, but I have spools on mine for a solid purchase. I don't trust the ones with greasy rubber pegs, on the greasy bottom of the swingarm, while the bikes running. IMO.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Endopotential View Post
    Thanks for this bit of advice Cooter!

    I had the hardest time finding neutral on my XB9. Tried the clutch adjustment, primary oil level, primary chain tension by measurement without much luck.
    But doing it dynamically with the engine running was what finally did the trick!

    Rides like a charm now. My clutch hand thanks you!
    Old thread I know. Don't yell at me for using the search function! I've been looking for info on primary adjustment. I was having some trouble finding neutral last fall. I was told that's indicative of out-of-spec primary. So during my end of season oil change I changed out the primary oil and adjusted per manual.

    Went out for a ride the other day and it's now much harder to shift. "tighter", or more "notchy" if that make sense. Feels like I have to use more clutch pull to get a smooth shift. I'm going to try Cooter's sound-based adjustment and see if that puts me in the sweet spot. I guess I can also check my ramp and make sure I have that adjustment correct as well.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    If it's 'adjusted to the manual' it should be fine, right? Pop off the 2 bolt inspection cover and see if you still have the right amount of play (in several places on the primary chain). If thats ok and it's not making noise, I wouldn't mess with it further.

    If the clutch is engaging at the same point in the lever travel, and disengaging before the lever hits the grip, then both the ramp, and cable, are adjusted fine.

    What primary oil did you use? What clutch is in the bike now? Formula +, ATF, 20W-50 all seem OK but I have found that a factory clutch doesn't like non-JASO 20w-50. It will feel sticky, and drag, causing neutral hard to get.

  9. #29
    Senior Member Barrett's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I was having some trouble finding neutral last fall. I was told that's indicative of out-of-spec primary


    You were told wrong. Difficulty "finding neutral" has absolutely no relationship to primary assembly drive chain tension...unless its so taut it's in the process of completely tearing out the clutch shell bearing in short order.

    Correct type and amount primary fluid
    Correct adjustment of clutch pack
    Correct routing and adjustment of clutch cable
    Entire clutch pack wear(stack height)within service limits.
    Correct shift linkage setting

    ^^^^^^^Always gives perfect shifting qualities.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett View Post
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I was having some trouble finding neutral last fall. I was told that's indicative of out-of-spec primary


    You were told wrong. Difficulty "finding neutral" has absolutely no relationship to primary assembly drive chain tension...unless its so taut it's in the process of completely tearing out the clutch shell bearing in short order.

    Correct type and amount primary fluid
    Correct adjustment of clutch pack
    Correct routing and adjustment of clutch cable
    Entire clutch pack wear(stack height)within service limits.
    Correct shift linkage setting

    ^^^^^^^Always gives perfect shifting qualities.

    *For a Buell.



    But yes Barrett is right (again). Theres no 'tricks' here.



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