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Thread: Paint Removal

  1. #1

    Paint Removal

    Hey guys - first post but I've been here a while. Looking for advice from someone who has seen this done. I know that XB fairings are made from golf balls (Suralyn) and I read Page 2 of the UM where it describes the trials of re-painting. Luckily what I'm trying to do is remove the P.O.'s paint job from my 03-XB9R, since the original white and silver is hiding beneath the crumbling red and black motif that is on there now.

    First I went at the front fairing for a half hour with a plastic scraper and I was amazed how well it cleaned up - shiny and everything, but it was very slow going. Then I scrubbed with some acetone and that sped things up a little, but still would take days to complete. Today I used my soda blaster along the inside of the faring and got more accomplished in 5 minutes than the whole previous afternoon, but unfortunately took off the glossy cover.

    So my question is - how should I re-gloss it? Plain old car wax? An aeresol? Since these are unique materials being used, could you please be specific about what coatings have worked well for you?

    Also open to thoughts on finishing this project - Think I was on to something with the acetone approach? Or better to blast away and shine it up later?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Crawling up your skirt
    No coating will work. Much like solid aluminum that needs to be polished... Ironically, polishing is the only correct solution. The entire plastic part is moulded in that color, so just polish it until it shines.
    Here ya go
    Last edited by Cooter; 10-09-2017 at 05:25 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    N. VA
    Another killer product for shining it is to buy Novus pinball polish, start with #3, do most of the work with #2 and final polish with #1. I use this stuff on my pinball machines and classic gaming consoles and it is magic on Buell parts.

  4. #4
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Nebraska City, NE
    If you are managing to scrape it off and not ruin the surface, stick with that method even if its slow. Polishing it all back out is a very time consuming process for sure and the less polishing you've got to do when you're finished the better! Buell plastics are pretty solvent resistant (dont swell or melt when introduced to things like acetone and lacquer thinner, but soften slightly for a while) so you can use those to help. I experiment with some parts that had been spray painted. I allowed them to soak in a tub of thinner for an hour or so and then i washed away the paint with very little scrubbing, but i had plans to re-paint so, not sure if that would be advisable if you're going to go original.

  5. #5
    Cool! So either method is thumbs up. I'll probably rig up an acetone bath and do a combination of the two, trying to preserve the original sheen in visible areas. Will also try Pinball Wizard's wax recommendation. Thanks guys!

    I was in Vegas this year and blew my tokens at the Pinball Hall of Fame.

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  6. #6
    Senior Member midway's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Yep, I was able to STORE an entire set of OEM buell plastics for a future owner in their natural luster & perfection using the (Cooter school of prep and polish) CSPP

    However if you wanted you could seek professionals who use QUALITY prime and paint and be equally satisfied with the results (durability & sheen). Plus still have the ability to buff out a boot scuff (if you restrain from clearcoats) still having cartilage left in your elbows.

    Last edited by midway; 10-09-2017 at 06:05 PM.

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