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Thread: not running smooth

  1. #11
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    chick yes it happens in every gear.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pantstain View Post
    chick yes it happens in every gear.
    That's a good thing. Rules out a transmission issue.

  3. #13
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    it definitely still does it after adding in the ground from the back coil mount to frame. i suppose my next thing will be to go ahead and get some intake gaskets even though im 99% sure these arent leaking...i may be wrong....and in a month or 2 when riding season is about done ill pull the fuel pump and check it over ....and possibly replace it while i have it out just to eliminate that cause

  4. #14
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    yeah im glad it isnt a trans issue. just wish i understood why it only does it when im under 2500 rpms at an even speed...doesnt do it at all when accelerating even under 2500 rpms. as frustrating as it is im wondering if i should take the for sale sign off the 900 and put it on the 1200 lol

  5. #15
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    It takes about 15 minutes to pull the pump. No need to wait so long.

    Support the rear of the bike by the seat rails. You can hang it from the rafters or an A-frame ladder.
    Put some blue painters tape on the swingarm to protect the paint.
    Pull the lower rear shock bolt out and let the swing arm drop down.
    Pull the small bolt out of the pump plate to drain the tank. Its helpful to use tin foil to make a moldable funnel and keep the swingarm clean.
    Pull the electrical connector and the 4 mounting bolts on the plate.
    The pump should slide out with a little twist to clear the swingarm.

    Check the wires really really well for worn insulation that could ground out on the frame.
    Note: on re-installaton, If you are trying to re-use the o-ring and find the o-ring seems to big to fit, give it a day or so to dry out and it will shrink back to normal size.

    I'm sure theres a few you tubes about it.

    That said. I don't think it's the pump unless the wires are vibrating just right at that RPM inside and rubbing. It's worth spending the time (free) to check it anyway.

    I still firmly think:
    "The static timing could be fine but the advance curve may be lacking (check with ECMDroid and/or your 'race' program)."

    and especially:

    "Could just be lean in that spot. The AFV is a global correction and would't usually show that[on the AFV]. Instead of doing the right thing and putting a Wide band O2 sensor on it, you could go to live data on ECMDroid and datalog the stock NB O2 voltages to see if its lean there."

    Could be lean because:
    "I would first triple check the intake seals for leaking, and check the airhorn gasket at the airbox baseplate (since you said it was just re-built)."


    and also could be lean because: (warning oversimplification ahead...)
    Low to mid throttle at 2500rpm will definitely be closed loop. When you get hard on the gas it comes out of closed loop (doesn't use the O2 signal) and uses the fuel map instead (including the AFV modification). An old, lazy, O2 could also make it lean and stutter, then when you throttle it and the bike runs well its because it's not using that signal. If you don't want to diagnose it properly its ok, They are cheap and easy to change.

    Support the rear of the bike just like pulling the fuel pump.
    take the whole rear shock out. top and bottom bolts, reservoir.
    take out the fan, 4 bolts
    use a 7/8" crowfoot and 6" wobbly extension on a ratchet to remove the O2.
    Last edited by Cooter; 10-21-2017 at 02:48 AM.

  6. #16
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    thanks for the advice cooter. from what i gather i dont need to remove the rear tire? that was my big holdup atm because i dont have a tool to remove the axle....

  7. #17
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    Also not sure how to check the timing curve as you mentioned. I use ecmspy but am open to other suggestions if there are better ones out there.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    I haven't reread the whole thread, so you may have covered this; did you check the primary fluid, chain adjustment and clutch adjustment?

  9. #19
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    I actually just did all of that when I got the bike repaired, and also swapped for xb9 gear and primary chain, so I'm 100% sure that is correct. Also replaced clutch cable with brand new one.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pantstain View Post
    thanks for the advice cooter. from what i gather i dont need to remove the rear tire? that was my big holdup atm because i dont have a tool to remove the axle....
    No you don't need to remove the rear wheel but if you even need too, you can use the tool that should be in your stock tool kit under the seat, or in a pinch a standard 5/8" nut usually has a 7/8" hex that will fit perfectly in the axle, remove using a wrench and pay attention to the direction to loosen!



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