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Thread: Metal clanging sound

  1. #11
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    I highly recommend not bending the horn brackets, it will eventually break apart as I found out first hand. I recommend removing the horn brackets altogether and bolting the horn to the cross brace, member, whatever it is directly. It will never rub the fly screen or anything behind it ever again saving the wiring, horn, headlights from a unnecessary beating. I found this out first hand riding the 3 sisters in the Hill country in Texas, probably broke the horn mounts on the Willow City loop catching a lot of air on the creek crossings and alot of raised cattle guards. Hey Swanthog I think your bike is still a little new to have to take the engine apart for a rattle, as the engine is pretty solid, quirky, but pretty solid. I think the real gremlins are mostly electrical, like that connector on the stator I think? I am used to the rattles but this post has forced me to listen to my windshield brackets rattle, or maybe its the flyscreen, when the engine is cold.
    Last edited by Tbone; 11-14-2017 at 05:53 PM.

  2. #12
    Junior Member swanthog's Avatar
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    I am waiting for my clutch tool to arrive so I performed some of the other checks:

    - Engine isolator
    Looks good like in lunaticfringe's picture
    - Oil tank
    fished around in the tank with a magnet. It came out clean but not 100% positive I worked the area where metal shavings would settle
    - Horn mount
    This is not the noise I am working to stop but I did the solid mount as suggested Tbone because I was experiencing this noise as well. He is right, zero interference with the fly screen

    At this point I'm leaning toward the alternator as the source of the noise -- bet it has the 4-bolt stator.
    Question: does anyone have a good procedure for removing the engine sprocket nut if the HD tool isn't available? If you haven't seen it, it is wedged between the engine sprocket and flywheel (judging by the low res image from the manual). I am thinking of cutting a length of lumber that will suit the same purpose.

    --Lawrence F.

    engine sprocket tool.jpg

  3. #13
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Engine oil drain plug magnet ??

  4. #14
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    You don't need HD tool. The locking bar tool for Buell XB12 is JIMS 2318, you can buy it on Ebay. Do not forget a good breaker bar (I used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and big torque wrench to assemble the sprockets back (I used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The sockets for sprockets nuts you can buy in Autozone.
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 11-16-2017 at 05:08 AM.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Use a brass door hinge wrapped in duct tape.
    Should cost you less that $5 at your local hardware store

    I've used this "tool" numerous times with NO issues.

  6. #16
    Junior Member swanthog's Avatar
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    For the lockbar, I borrowed the hinge from the door leading to my garage (with no small amount of protesting by my wife). It worked great but was a pain to make stay in place while wrenching. Maybe some bubble gum on the ends next time

    With the rotor and clutch basket removed there was no visible signs of damage. Crank, Mainshaft, and countershaft bearings all look great and have zero freeplay.
    The bike already has the 8-bolt rotor. I had read someplace that a 4-bolt was originally used (maybe another bike/year?)

    At this point it appears I have bigger problems than previously thought. It looks like I'll be pulling the engine.

    Thanks again for all your helpful replies.

    Lawrence F.

  7. #17
    Junior Member swanthog's Avatar
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    Update:

    Discussing this with the BadWebers revealed the problem (link here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgib...?142838/823481). The Drummer exhaust is responsible for the rattle. I pulled it and cold started the bike... no rattle whatsoever. It is a huge relief to know that I can keep on riding and put some serious miles on this bike.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanthog View Post
    Update:

    Discussing this with the BadWebers revealed the problem (link here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgib...?142838/823481). The Drummer exhaust is responsible for the rattle. I pulled it and cold started the bike... no rattle whatsoever. It is a huge relief to know that I can keep on riding and put some serious miles on this bike.
    perhaps mentioning the fact on here that your bike was sporting a Drummer muffler would have helped????

  9. #19
    Junior Member swanthog's Avatar
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    True. A list of mods done is useful information for troubleshooting. I apologize.
    The drummer is visible in the video and my avatar

  10. #20
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    I'm just glad it's just the muffler !

    Good luck with your bike !



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