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Thread: Maybe buy '09 1125CR: questions

  1. #11
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by d_adams View Post
    Got pics of the leak at the front? Might be nothing, but then again, could be the water pump. If so, it's a bit of a job at 8-12 hours plus parts. Is it oil or coolant?
    I thought it looked like oil, but I should've touched the fluid and identified it positively. I visually checked the radiator for leaks and the hoses connected to it and it appeared to be fine. It looks like the clutch cover has a leak somewhere below the water pump and forward of the engine case. How common is it for the water pump to develop a problem?

  2. #12
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    It's common enough that I keep a 2010 1125 (or 2014+ 1190) pump kit on hand. On my 4th 1190, 2 have leaked.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by d_adams View Post
    It's common enough that I keep a 2010 1125 (or 2014+ 1190) pump kit on hand. On my 4th 1190, 2 have leaked.
    Well that's good to know. I don't mind repairing/upgrading the engine to make it reliable, but I'm having a little trouble determining how much (in parts) I need to invest in. The main issue stems from what parts are actually needed to perform the clutch cover and/or water pump repair/upgrade? Whatever the total investment is, I'd like to leverage that against the selling price of the bike. I was able to determine that at least 5 possibly warranty service issues have been addressed on the bike from when it was purchased new in Sahuarita, AZ (making it a bonafide AZ bike, for sure).

    1. 11/28/2009 (TUCSON, AZ), mileage: 612, SERVICE CONTRACT REPAIR PERFORMED
    2. 06/05/2010 (TUCSON, AZ), mileage: 3,588 SERVICE CONTRACT REPAIR PERFORMED
    3. 12/21/2010 (TUCSON, AZ), mileage: 6,782 SERVICE CONTRACT REPAIR PERFORMED
    4. 07/01/2011 (TUCSON, AZ), mileage: 9,788 SERVICE CONTRACT REPAIR PERFORMED
    5. 06/05/2012 (TEMPE, AZ), mileage: 12,384 SERVICE CONTRACT REPAIR PERFORMED


    According to this information, the '09-10 clutch cover diaphragm/ring assembly (R1029A.1AM) and (X2086.1AM) may already be installed on this 2009 CR? If so, and it's leaking like it is, is the 2010 cover upgrade the correct solution? I'm showing that St Paul HD has them for a bit over $200. This guy on Badweb upgraded and lists some parts, not sure if this is what's needed. In the end, I just want to know how much I'm for so I can help make the sale price more realistic.

    Thanks in advance!

  4. #14
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    I bought it! Now to fix that oil leak... it's pretty bad.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Congrats! Pics pics pics!

  6. #16
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    Again, pics of said leak would be beneficial for a diagnosis.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    General pics of the bike. Honestly, the previous owner took much better pics than I for the ad on Craigslist.

    DSCN0597.jpgDSCN0600.jpg

    Here's some shots of the oil leak. It's definitely oil, not coolant.

    DSCN0601.jpgDSCN0602.jpg
    DSCN0607.jpg

    It appears to either be coming from the engine case where it splits in half, OR it's just simply seeping out of one of the oil drain plugs or something. What's interesting is the leftside (kickstand side) drain plug, it looks like there's residue all over that plug and it might be getting everywhere just from that during operation? I have no idea and no experience with these engines, so really relying on you guys here!

  8. #18
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Hard to say from those pics, try to put some real light on it and get a pic from down below.
    Could be the drain plug. Theres no pressure there, but heat thins out oil quite a bit. I've seen them only leak when hot.
    A new O-ring is a good investment. Swap the o-ring (Napa), Clean it up really well and go riding. Take a look when you're back.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Sound advice. I was looking at the factory manual for oil change procedure and it appears that both drain plugs require an aluminum washer while the dipstick has an O-ring. What's the best place to source these parts?

  10. #20
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    Clean it off with contact cleaner (or brake cleaner, either will do the job) and check it again after a ride. I've never had to replace the crush washers on any of my rotax motors yet, they've always sealed just fine even with repeated use. Most (if not all) HD dealers can get the parts for you, I usually find them either from Newcastle-HD or Saint Paul HD online. Easiest thing to start with is cleaning it to check for an actual leak. Could have just been a messy oil change.

    Looks like you have a small bit of brake fluid coming out of the clutch puck, either get the EBR replacement kit or the Oberon one. I've not used the Oberon slave kit personally, but it's a decent option for replacement from the reports I've read. It's a 1-2 hour job at most, I've done a couple of them. You'll lose a small bit of oil and brake fluid when removing the clutch cover to change the parts inside. Best option is to pre-plan for it and just do an oil change while you're doing the clutch puck though.



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