Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 43

Thread: Maybe buy '09 1125CR: questions

  1. #1
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    383

    Maybe buy '09 1125CR: questions

    Hey guys, I'm seriously thinking about picking up a 2nd (maybe 3rd) hand '09 1125CR with 16K miles on it. Current owner says it needs nothing, but also states:
    The only thing that you should take note of is that there's a VERY tiny oil leak on the engine case gasket and I can show you, but it's so minimal that the oil level hasn't even dropped one bit for months. I haven’t exactly pinpointed the leak to one specific portion. It’s an extremely slow leak. I haven’t needed to top it off at all since the oil change. Level hasn’t even dropped on the dipstick.
    What exactly would this engine weep possibly be and is it possible to say that it would or wouldn't be an easy fix? I know that BRP-Rotax makes incredible engines so I really shouldn't be concerned, but you never know.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    10,877
    I wouldn't be worried at all. Sounds like the owner is very "particular" and that's a good person to buy from. I loved every CR I owned

    Check to see the charging system works well, and if it has the Harley "fix". Easy to Google.
    Pics and details would help

  3. #3
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    383
    What kind of longevity do you expect from one of these engines? How difficult is the valve adjustment? It doesn't look as easy as a 70s Honda, that's for sure!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,790
    Great bikes !!!! Great value ! http://buellmods.com/
    Last edited by Silverrider; 01-10-2018 at 07:05 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    10,877
    Longevity isn't an issue. Keep the right weight oil in it for the ambient temp you're in, and don't rev it hard or ride it hard when it's cold.

    A valve adjust is the same basic shim under bucket style been used for many years. To get the best access you'll need to do an "engine rotate" It sounds and looks harder than it really is. Instructions are in the link that Silver so generously provided for you.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    383
    Going to take a look at it on Saturday AM. Here's a link to the posting.

    On my '08 XB12Ss, I had the rear wheel seize up on me due to the older 2-bearing design. I've replaced the wheel with a '10 model 3-bearing unit; does the 1125 suffer from the same issue?

    Also, is the 1125 a dual O2 setup from the factory? I suspect it is, just not sure. If you can think of anything I should specifically look for while inspecting the bike, please let me know. Thanks for the help.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,790
    sweet !!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Crawling up your skirt
    Posts
    10,877
    Looks like a nice bike and seems to have an owner that isn't an idiot I'm going through Tuscon now, maybe I'll pick it up?



    JK

    The wheels bearings on a Buell are super cheap and should be changed when the tires are replaced IMO. 2 or 3 bearing doesn't make a difference.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    383
    Hehe, thanks. No seriously, my rear wheel seized up around 20,000 miles. I replaced it with the '10 wheel with the 3 bearings and have 35K on the bike now, no issues so far. I think the larger bearing and additional bearing will hopefully increase it's life!

    I checked out the '09 CR this AM. It's weeping from 2 places on the engine, the clutch cover and also directly from the engine case towards the front. That leak is reasonably substantial and is dripping onto the muffler. Aside from this, it's got eBay no-name brand parts all over it including adjustable clutch levers, rear fender delete, etc. Has anyone seen the front engine case leak that is NOT the clutch cover weeping? I'd just like to know how much work I'm in for because at 16K miles the engine is going to need rotation and valves adjusted anyway.

    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Just outside of St. Louis
    Posts
    3,542
    Got pics of the leak at the front? Might be nothing, but then again, could be the water pump. If so, it's a bit of a job at 8-12 hours plus parts. Is it oil or coolant?



Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •