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Thread: Maybe buy '09 1125CR: questions

  1. #21
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Yep. They are crush washers, not o-rings, my bad. It's been awhile since I had my CR but my advise is the same You can get aluminum (or copper) crush washers from a Napa or Ace as well. They weren't made by Buell.

    Good eye on the clutch weep! Better get it fixed before its a real issue

  2. #22
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    I cleaned the engine thoroughly last night so no oil residue existed at all. Went for a ride this evening and noticed that the oil is leaking heavily from the front of the righthand side clutch housing cover. This is the large casting that contains the clutch, water pump, etc. Is a new gasket the solution? I vaguely recall reading somewhere about a new revision of the cover as well (new for 2010 models, perhaps?).
    IMG_20180117_224614.jpg

    I found a video of this exact leak:
    Last edited by Mesozoic; 01-18-2018 at 06:08 AM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    Assuming the case isn't cracked, yes, a new gasket should fix it. Unfortunately, to get to that gasket, you're in for a bit of a job. Personally, I'd pull the frame to do it since it only takes about 30 more minutes to remove it completely vs rotating it. The rear header needs to be pulled off, so that's why I suggest pulling the frame. It's just easier to work on with everything off and out of the way. Might as well do a valve check while you have it off, change the spark plugs, etc.

    Your options are replace just the gasket, or do everything right and swap out the water pump seals, valve check and everything else while it's apart.

  4. #24
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by d_adams View Post
    Assuming the case isn't cracked, yes, a new gasket should fix it. Unfortunately, to get to that gasket, you're in for a bit of a job. Personally, I'd pull the frame to do it since it only takes about 30 more minutes to remove it completely vs rotating it. The rear header needs to be pulled off, so that's why I suggest pulling the frame. It's just easier to work on with everything off and out of the way. Might as well do a valve check while you have it off, change the spark plugs, etc.

    Your options are replace just the gasket, or do everything right and swap out the water pump seals, valve check and everything else while it's apart.
    I don't believe the case or clutch housing is cracked, but the gasket has certainly failed. I figure that at this point I should upgrade the exhaust as well. Valve adjustment and spark plugs are definitely going to happen. Just as well anyway since the bike is now at 17000 miles.

    Is anyone familiar with the 2010 model year clutch housing replacement? The one with the oil sight glass or something. I understand there are multiple additional components that need to be replaced if replacing the clutch housing, but I'm thinking that it might be a good idea (although expensive).

  5. #25
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    Just tighten the cover screws to spec with torque wrench. The screws are loosened. No need to replace the gasket.
    Last edited by TPEHAK; 01-18-2018 at 02:21 PM.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TPEHAK View Post
    Just tighten the cover screws to spec with torque wrench. The screws are loosened. No need to replace the gasket.
    I wish. That's the first thing I did. I cleaned the engine thoroughly, then torqued all of the bolts to 97 in-lbs per the service manual using the torque sequence indicated.

  7. #27
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesozoic View Post
    Is anyone familiar with the 2010 model year clutch housing replacement? The one with the oil sight glass or something. I understand there are multiple additional components that need to be replaced if replacing the clutch housing, but I'm thinking that it might be a good idea (although expensive).
    The sight glass is on the engine case itself, not the clutch cover. Not what would be a normal upgrade since both case halves need to be replaced typically. As I recall, if you do the 2010 waterpump upgrade, it's the cover, pump impeller, oil seal and coolant seal. There's a difference in the size of the hole that the pump seals sit in. Not sure if it's larger or smaller though.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    I'm a little confused by the nomenclature used to identify the clutch cover. There is the 8-bolt circular cover which is commonly referred to as the clutch cover (the one that typically weeps), but the service manual refers to the clutch cover as being the actual engine case cover that the "clutch cover" and water pump are bolted to.

    Are these the parts I need to sort out my engine case cover, water pump, etc?
    • R0022A.3AM Cover
    • Q0428.3AM Water pump shaft
    • CB0028.1AM Thrust Washer
    • E0015.1AM Needle Bushing
    • Q0430.3AM Oil Seal
    • Q0431.3AM Rotary Seal
    • Maybe reuse Q0427.1AM impeller?
    • Tool B-49140 water pump timing pin

  9. #29
    Senior Member d_adams's Avatar
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    I saw a couple of the EBR 1190 water pump covers with the impeller already installed on ebay earlier. Only difference is the color of the paint. I made a list of parts on the 1190 forum a couple of years ago, parts list is the same except the cover itself, which you have listed. The timing pin tool is not needed, just use a drill bit (or a correct sized pin) to align the timing marks.

  10. #30
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by d_adams View Post
    I saw a couple of the EBR 1190 water pump covers with the impeller already installed on ebay earlier. Only difference is the color of the paint. I made a list of parts on the 1190 forum a couple of years ago, parts list is the same except the cover itself, which you have listed. The timing pin tool is not needed, just use a drill bit (or a correct sized pin) to align the timing marks.
    Dean, can you confirm the part numbers I need to obtain to repair and reinstate my engine?

    Also, are there any forum member discounts for your exhaust systems?



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