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Thread: 07 XB12SS Build

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    The RFID shouldn't be used for energizing the ignition for that exact reason.

    The RFID part should only activate (unlock) the starter button, (I added a light to tell me if it was unlocked)

    Pressing the stock starter button will now either just cycle the ignition on and off, or energize the ignition and crank the bike at the same time (if you have the brake lever or clutch lever pulled, your choice). Now with the bike running, pressing the starter button again will kill the ignition. Slick! You can walk away from it running because the RFID doesn't control the ignition, it just unlocks the starter button. Exactly the way a new 'keyless' car works. Key in pocket, foot on brake, press start button. Press start button again to stop.

    FYI, these bikes take a lot of CCA, so don't use the tiny relay in the cheap RFID box to crank the starter. Use it to energize the stock starter relay instead
    Interesting. How difficult was it to wire up this way?

    And if I understand correctly, it sounds like the RFID basically takes the place of the kill switch, only allowing use of the starter button when it is engaged (which is fine with me).

    So if this is the case, how do you turn on the gauges and such (first key position I beleive on the keyed ignition) before starting the bike? Do you have all of that wired into the killswitch so that it is all off when the killswitch is off, and the gauges and headlight come on when you engage the killswitch? Or do you have a separate toggle switch somewhere that turns on the dash and lights?

    Sorry if that's a dumb question. I've been doing alot of reading on RFID ignition setups, but it's difficult to find a thorough guide on them, and I've always been more of a hands-on learner anyway.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by modrummer View Post
    Interesting. How difficult was it to wire up this way?

    Super simple. Get the RFID with the push button switch included and just wire your stock yellow starter switch in place of the supplied button.

    And if I understand correctly, it sounds like the RFID basically takes the place of the kill switch, only allowing use of the starter button when it is engaged (which is fine with me).
    Nope. That would be an ignition interrupt (what you DO NOT want)

    So if this is the case, how do you turn on the gauges and such (first key position I beleive on the keyed ignition) before starting the bike? Do you have all of that wired into the killswitch so that it is all off when the killswitch is off, and the gauges and headlight come on when you engage the killswitch? Or do you have a separate toggle switch somewhere that turns on the dash and lights?

    There is only one key position on your bike (don't include the 'park' position that leaves the taillight on) so its either all on or all off right now. There is 2 ignition circuits that are BOTH turned on with the single key position, the RFID box should have 2 ignition circuit input/outputs (as well at a start circuit) to keep them separate, but turn them on and off at the same time, like the key does now.
    Now the starter button does the ignition AND the crank. If you want to start the bike, swipe the RFID (no circuit is energized, the button is just 'unlocked', no ignition on...), hold the brake (or clutch lever, your choice to wire) and press the start button (the ignition activates and the starter cranks until the bike starts).
    If you want to just turn on the ignition and NOT start the bike (for some reason?)... swipe the RFID and press the start button (ignition will energize, bike will not crank unless you pull a lever and press the button again

    You can leave the kill switch inline if you like using it. But it's unnecessary. The starter button right next to it will now shut the bike off since you have no key to do that

    Sorry if that's a dumb question. I've been doing alot of reading on RFID ignition setups, but it's difficult to find a thorough guide on them, and I've always been more of a hands-on learner anyway.
    Like this one:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Car-Ke...-/253260452057

    Cut off the 3 wires the switch comes with: 2 go to your stock yellow starter switch, one is for a light (I put a small LED in the right control housing so I knew when the system was 'unlocked')
    White: oil pressure sensor output so it knows when the bike running. Some need a tach signal, Crank or Cam sensor output is fine.
    Grey/White: Just ground it, or use it as an extra safety by hooking up to the kill switch (unit won't operate unless it sees ground here)
    Brown white: Same as above but unit will operate only if it does NOT see ground here, as if an alarm was armed
    Blue/white: Brake light wire (or clutch switch wire) unit will crank the engine when the button in unlocked AND this circuit is closed
    Green/white: no connection
    Yellow/White: no connection
    Brown: No connection. It will activate with the RFID, turn off while cranking and turn back on once started
    Yellow: The activate the stock starter solonoid (Not the starter itself)
    Blue: The stock ignition circuit that does NOT control the fuel pump, it also turn off while cranking)
    White: The stock ignition circuit that activates the fuel pump (it's from the kill switch)

    You can make all of these connections at the ECM with the pin-out from the manual (Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com)
    Last edited by Cooter; 02-16-2018 at 07:40 PM.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Like this one:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Car-Ke...-/253260452057

    Cut off the 3 wires the switch comes with: 2 go to your stock yellow starter switch, one is for a light (I put a small LED in the right control housing so I knew when the system was 'unlocked')
    White: oil pressure sensor output so it knows when the bike running. Some need a tach signal, Crank or Cam sensor output is fine.
    Grey/White: Just ground it, or use it as an extra safety by hooking up to the kill switch (unit won't operate unless it sees ground here)
    Brown white: Same as above but unit will operate only if it does NOT see ground here, as if an alarm was armed
    Blue/white: Brake light wire (or clutch switch wire) unit will crank the engine when the button in unlocked AND this circuit is closed
    Green/white: no connection
    Yellow/White: no connection
    Brown: No connection. It will activate with the RFID, turn off while cranking and turn back on once started
    Yellow: The activate the stock starter solonoid (Not the starter itself)
    Blue: The stock ignition circuit that does NOT control the fuel pump, it also turn off while cranking)
    White: The stock ignition circuit that activates the fuel pump (it's from the kill switch)

    You can make all of these connections at the ECM with the pin-out from the manual (Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com)

    Wow, that's super helpful. Thanks man! Appreciate you putting in the effort to share that.

    I'll take a crack at it when it shows up, doesn't sound too bad.

  4. #24
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    It is pretty common sense if you're ok dealing with electrons

    This thread makes me want to do it again. It was super convenient!

  5. #25
    Hey cooter, I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to wiring, and the instructions that came with the RFID are rather lacking. See pictures below. On the supplied wiring diagram, no yellow wire is listed and I'm not sure what the plug pin thing is that has the red/black/yellow/white wires going to it is?

    On the relay itself I assume N/C and N/O stand for normally closed and normally open. If this is the case, what should be run to those two and the "COM " port? Sorry for all the questions !



    20180220_165006.jpg

    20180220_165412.jpg

    20180220_165416.jpg

  6. #26
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Mmm, Hmmm....
    OK. The wire colors I referenced were for the link I posted (to the thing you need). It's 26 bucks and well worth it.

    What you bought is a giant box that only turns a relay on and off with the RFID chip. It won't do what you want it to do. Sorry bud.

    Get that thing (in the link) on the way and I'll walk you through the install

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Mmm, Hmmm....
    OK. The wire colors I referenced were for the link I posted (to the thing you need). It's 26 bucks and well worth it.

    What you bought is a giant box that only turns a relay on and off with the RFID chip. It won't do what you want it to do. Sorry bud.

    Get that thing (in the link) on the way and I'll walk you through the install
    Darn, ok I went ahead and ordered the one you linked. The one I got only cost $10 so I'm not out much, and I might find another fun use for it.

    Thanks!

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Mmm, Hmmm....
    OK. The wire colors I referenced were for the link I posted (to the thing you need). It's 26 bucks and well worth it.


    What you bought is a giant box that only turns a relay on and off with the RFID chip. It won't do what you want it to do. Sorry bud.

    Get that thing (in the link) on the way and I'll walk you through the install
    Ok so because I'm pretty dumb and learning, would it not work with my current RFID to just have the tag turn the bike power on and off? So basically "swiping" the RFID tag turns the bike on (lights, gauges, etc... and then you can just press the starter button). Swiping it again turns everything back off. Seems like that would be fairly simple. I would have to mount the RFID reader somewhere out of the way so I couldn't accidentally turn it off while riding (possibly in the tail section somewhere?

    If I am totally misunderstanding that let me know



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