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Thread: Intermittent parking lamps/turn signals

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    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Intermittent parking lamps/turn signals

    My '08 XB12Ss has developed an intermittent issue where the brake lamp running light, low beam, and turn signals do not function while running. I've checked the fuses and all is well there. I kind of thought it might have something to do with my ignition switch because I've seen the low beam flick on for a moment as I've cycled through the positions, but not sure. Does this sound like a familiar issue to anyone? I did crash on my left side a couple of years ago and have replaced the bar end mirror, primary cover, shift linkage, and handlebar (thought it'd a good idea even though I couldn't visibly tell it was bent).

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    I did crash on my left side a couple of years ago and have replaced the bar end mirror, primary cover, shift linkage, and handlebar (thought it'd a good idea even though I couldn't visibly tell it was bent).

    going to assume here that all repairs were satisfactorily performed, all connections intact and all bulbs and handlebar switch gear assemblies are up to par. if that is the case then:
    1-go to the front of your bike with a flashlight. you clearly have a faulty ground. kneel down with flashlight and look at both the steering neck and the lower triple clamp. you'll see a bundle of 3 black wires. those are all the front end grounds. check both the wire-to-eyelet as well as the actual ground. visual means nothing. remove the torx screw, clean all connections and the screw itself, reinstall and see what you have.
    2-after performing step #1 turn on ignition switch but do NOT start the bike. activate turn signal. left or right...doesn't matter. now wiggle the key in the switch. signals intermittent? stop working? faulty switch.

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    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Thanks for the response.

    I've augmented my grounds a fair bit and am using star washers with teeth on all the eyelets to ensure that each eyelet has a good connection to the chassis via the bite. Do you mind elaborating on precisely what motion wiggling the key in the switch is?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesozoic View Post
    Thanks for the response.

    I've augmented my grounds a fair bit and am using star washers with teeth on all the eyelets to ensure that each eyelet has a good connection to the chassis via the bite. Do you mind elaborating on precisely what motion wiggling the key in the switch is?
    do as i mentioned in step 2 by simply gently wiggling the key in the ON position and see if that affects the lights or gauge cluster assembly. also try lightly pulling key out and pushing down on it and see if that affects anything. if so it's the switch assembly. you can also actually start the bike....check the lights...activate the turn signal either left or right....then wiggle the key in the switch and lightly try pulling it out and pushing it down and see if anything is affected by doing that.

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    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    do as i mentioned in step 2 by simply gently wiggling the key in the ON position and see if that affects the lights or gauge cluster assembly. also try lightly pulling key out and pushing down on it and see if that affects anything. if so it's the switch assembly. you can also actually start the bike....check the lights...activate the turn signal either left or right....then wiggle the key in the switch and lightly try pulling it out and pushing it down and see if anything is affected by doing that.
    I'll give it a shot, thanks for the advice!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesozoic View Post
    I'll give it a shot, thanks for the advice!
    my pleasure. one other quick thing: you mentioned "running light". old bastard trick and tip: if you have a light anywhere on your bike that is simply not working then do the following old-school trick that works like a charm every time.
    turn on the light....flick bulb with finger tip....if it flickers or goes out it's the filament. replace with new.
    other sure fire method is turn on the assembly with bulb removed and carefully probe into the socket housing with test light attached to known good ground. check the center terminal at bottom of housing. test light illuminates? faulty ground. always!

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    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Well, I tried jiggling the key, moving it up and down, in and out with the bike key on, powered off, as well as while running. No luck in getting it to repro the issue. Then when I rolled the bike out into the sun, I turned the key on and the issue presented itself. And then by itself, without even touching the bike, it resolved itself and the parking light in the brakes and the turn signals were working again... this was all with the engine not running!

    I wonder if there is a faulty/dying relay that might need to be replaced or something?

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    the key switch relay controls most all of the light and signal circuits but the ignition relay also feeds the handlebar control switch gear assemblies which are directly related to most all the lights. the relays cross over to many chrysler and ford a/c relays....about $6 at any local auto parts joint. take one of yours along and match it up to what they have in stock. rated @ 20 amps and the amp rating embossed atop the relay housing. never hurts to have a few spares as they're cheap.
    chances are excellent that you have a loose wire or corroded/dirty contact connection in your fuse box. using patience i would remove each fuse 1 by 1, check its male lugs and then clean each terminal that it plugs into.penetrant such as aerokroil and an air gun accomplish this task nicely. after that i'd then move to front of bike, remove your Ss flyscreen, turn on ignition and begin to wiggle connectors, plugs, harnesses and individual wires and see if you can replicate the problem. if so you just identified the culprit. do the same where the harness runs past the steering neck area.



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