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Thread: A Frenchy on a XB12S

  1. #11
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    Welcome, Frenchie! Congrats on getting to ride the bike of your bucket list! Looks good! "PO" is short of for "Previous Owner"...so PO slacking is the previous owner not taking care of all the maintenance they should have. That's hilarious about Jardine in French. So, a "Jardine pipe" could be called a "garden hose." Ok...a loud garden hose.

  2. #12
    Member herwawan's Avatar
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    Et voilą ! I am the proud owner of a XB12SCG

    Fun fact number 1: it started raining as soon as I signed the paperwork. So yeah, I drove back home under the rain... IN LOS ANGELES. Jesus, that's a joke, I came here for the sun!

    Fun fact number 2, the second I hit my garage, the oil light turned on She's asking for a good oil change! And it's clearly due since the last one is from last year.

    IMG_0319.jpg

    So from there, it's going to be a slow process of going through the big 25k miles maintenance. I found the list on the service manual, it's a pretty huge one!

    Screen Shot 2018-02-12 at 5.16.40 PM.jpg

    This is where I'm going to need a little bit of help! As I just got to the US, needless to say I have no tools at all. I'll slowly get equipment as I go through some maintenance - but obviously as I don't have so much space I won't turn into a HD dealership haha!

    What do you guys recommend me to start with? I am looking forward your recommendation!

    One important detail, please have in mind that I literally have to learn everything again. Why? Because tools and parts and measures and everything are different from my native language. I don't see what an OZ is (I don't even know how to prononce that!), the size of the tools (inch?!) is in another unit I've never used in my life, so... yeah. It's going to be fun! I like learning new stuff Just be aware that sometimes I can ask stupid questions if I don't find the answer by myself! On that note, thanks submax for translating PO!

    SO EXCITED!

  3. #13
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I would be very very careful with that oil light. It doesn't have anything to do with needing it changed, it is a oil pressure warning and the bike should be shut off immediately if you see it while the bike is running.

    BUT, it will illuminate every time the ignition is on and the engine is stopped because the oil pump is engine driven. No engine on = no pressure.

    I will make the assumption you just didn't notice the light when you started it, but got to your garage hit the kill switch (not the key) and the light turned on.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    That list isn't so bad. it's all easily done with hand tools, and you don't really need many to perform those tasks.
    It would be easiest to shop Craftsman tools and get a small complete set. Cheap, decent tools that should last a little while...
    A 1/4" hex driver kit
    An Open/ closed wrench set from 5/16" to 7/8"
    3/8" drive qualityratchet and "wobbly" extensions
    A Hex key set

    The only weird tools I can think of would be:
    A bluetooth dongle paired with an Android device running ECMDroid

    Axle tool

    a T27 torx driver

    a 7/8" crowsfoot for the O2 (oxygen sensor)

    A DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter)

    A 3/8" torque wrench

    A hand vacuum pump to flush brake fluid easily
    Last edited by Cooter; 02-13-2018 at 06:51 PM.

  5. #15
    Member herwawan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I would be very very careful with that oil light. It doesn't have anything to do with needing it changed, it is a oil pressure warning and the bike should be shut off immediately if you see it while the bike is running.

    BUT, it will illuminate every time the ignition is on and the engine is stopped because the oil pump is engine driven. No engine on = no pressure.

    I will make the assumption you just didn't notice the light when you started it, but got to your garage hit the kill switch (not the key) and the light turned on.
    Ok that is very good to know. I just went to check and that's weird. When I started to bike, the oil light was on, then when I turn off the kill switch another light turned on (sync. with the pump ignition noise).

    When I started, the bike did a pretty big misfire and had a second of having a hard time starting, then all good, the oil light disappeared. But never reappeared even after I turned the killswitch on, or even turned the ignition on and off. When I started it again couple second after, it went just well.

    IMG_0321.jpg

    I am wondering if the battery isn't a bit weak as the previous owner wasn't using it much, messing around with the bike. I am now smelling gas - all over me like crazy haha - probably a hint at something.

    I also checked the oil level... dramatically low. So oil change is step one for sure. I just order a Mechanical tools set and I already have a spare oil filter (KN 177).

    IMG_0322.jpg


    What oil do you guys recommend (if I get that right, it's 20W50, but is there any specificity about it?)?

    ---

    EDIT: Oh wow I just saw your list of equipment! That is EXACTLY what I needed Thanks a LOT!
    Last edited by herwawan; 02-14-2018 at 12:33 AM.

  6. #16
    Senior Member TPEHAK's Avatar
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    Mobil 1 v-twin 20w50 for sure.

    If oil is low add oil first.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Oh good, whew! Just worry about the lights if they turn on while its running. Yellow means fix it when you get home and red means STOP! and fix it NOW!

    You will flood the bike and foul the plugs if you keep cycling the key or starting it and not warming it up completely. Quit it!

    V-twins need a specific 'V-twin' oil because they have a high shear strength additive for the big mass of metal swinging around inside. Much like diesel oil. 20w-50 is typical, but the manual recommends 10w-40 if your bike will be ridden in temps below 40*(Fahrenheits Frenchie... haha)

    Edit: yes, these eat batteries every few years. Between the vibrations and the strain. They take a LOT of CCA (220). A new good battery is a good idea, our resident expert (Lunatic Fringe) has a Buell shop and recommends Deka Big Crank batteries. They are a great value for a nice battery. 220CCA!

    There is a Buellizm about that. If you battery is getting a little weak. When you press and hold the yellow button, the bike cranks/pauses/cranks. Try to let off the starter button for a fraction of a second and hit it again. This will (hopefully) let the momentum of the starter moving the crank overcome the compression for the first revolution.
    Last edited by Cooter; 02-14-2018 at 01:56 AM.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Oh good, whew! Just worry about the lights if they turn on while its running. Yellow means fix it when you get home and red means STOP! and fix it NOW!

    You will flood the bike and foul the plugs if you keep cycling the key or starting it and not warming it up completely. Quit it!
    He is very serious about this and so am I, because I fouled plugs immediately after getting mine home doing exactly that.

    changing plugs is a bigger pain in the cul than you think -- the frame spars make getting to the back plug hard.

    Also note that oil level should be checked with it on the sidestand, after the oil's hot, but also after letting it drain into the swingarm/tank for a few minutes.

    To avoid any doubt with mine, i just changed it (this past weekend) so i KNOW there's 2.5 qt in it.

    Oh and this is maybe paranoia because of what happened to me, but... make sure your sidestand is on tight (mine broke off a bolt and almost made me drop the bike)

  9. #19
    Member herwawan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    There is a Buellizm about that. If you battery is getting a little weak. When you press and hold the yellow button, the bike cranks/pauses/cranks. Try to let off the starter button for a fraction of a second and hit it again. This will (hopefully) let the momentum of the starter moving the crank overcome the compression for the first revolution.
    Ha, that's a perfect way of describing it, that's exactly it. I'll think about one of these Big Crank battery in the future then, in the meantime I can use a battery tender keep it charged!

    Quote Originally Posted by sinikl View Post
    He is very serious about this and so am I, because I fouled plugs immediately after getting mine home doing exactly that.

    changing plugs is a bigger pain in the cul than you think -- the frame spars make getting to the back plug hard.

    Also note that oil level should be checked with it on the sidestand, after the oil's hot, but also after letting it drain into the swingarm/tank for a few minutes.

    Oh and this is maybe paranoia because of what happened to me, but... make sure your sidestand is on tight (mine broke off a bolt and almost made me drop the bike)
    Gotcha! I only did it once, yesterday when I checked after seeing the posts in this thread. I usually wake an engine up only with the purpose of driving it, and my experience with old cars definitely makes me not to fond of starting an engine 3 times in a row for nothing. But I appreciate the concern and I'll be extra cautious now, thanks guys.

    Also, you are answering a question I had with your message! I was wondering how to find the good setup for checking the oil level. I did not do that, I'll check again tomorrow - thanks. Regarding the sidestand, I don't trust it AT ALL. It feels unsecured, mellow and weak. I have a jack stand though that I will setup tomorrow, it will help not stressing about it. What do you recommend to improve the feeling - and stability - of the sidestand?

    On another note, I took the bike for a ride today, needed to go get the oil. It was a 30min ride, very interesting. First, I can feel it's a bike that likes to be ridden more than asleep in a garage. After few miles, it felt way more "at ease". Second, I really like how chill this is despite the noise and the power/torque. It's just very easy, it goes on the torque without forcing and you can just enjoy the lengthy gears (I'm a pretty chill driver too, though - I had enough fun younger and somehow I survived to it). Third, it's been 24 hours and I'm already very attached to it

    The short ride also allowed me to spot some issues:

    - the right blinker doesn't blink all the time (it will blink for few seconds then just stay on - same on the dashboard, the green light will just stay still and not blink)

    - the fan does a weird noise, like something was hitting the fan blades. I did a video so you can hear that out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qhL_2Ypdjo

    - I get some misfire when I release the throttle between 4k and 2.5k rpm

    - Jesus that thing smells! My wife doesn't want to get close to me after I touched the bike - too much gas smell for her! I am wondering if that's something I should get used to, or a hint at something that can be fixed?

    Last but not least, I've got most of the parts for the oil change, I believe I just need the rubber ring that needs to be replaced on the oil screw? Not sure where I can find that, though. Any suggestion?

    IMG_0331.jpg

    PS: I see all of your French hints, guys haha Love it!
    Last edited by herwawan; 02-14-2018 at 06:46 AM.

  10. #20
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    95% of what you're asking via this endless thread is covered in the factory service manual. answers as follows to this lengthy list of questions:'
    1-oil change procedure and viscosities clearly listed in both owners and service manuals.
    2-oil level check procedure is: ride till swingarm/tank feels minimally warm to the touch or greater....stop...park on level surface....sidestand down....remove helmet and gloves....get rag....remove dipstick....wipe clean....replace dipstick and screw in fully....unscrew and NOW check the level. there is ONLY ONE perfect method and this is it.
    3-right flasher error: check bulb but all likelihood bad headlight housing connection/front ground. again all locations and trouble-shooting for same in service manual.
    4-fan is Spal brand. yours is junk. internal bearings deceased. buy new or good quality used online. factory part # is Y0050.02A8A. retails for approx. $140....good used for approx. $50 online. REPLACE IMMEDIATELY to avoid catastrophic over-heating problems.
    5-stock tuned XB's tend to afterfire into the exhaust. can be minimalized with careful knowledgeable ecm tuning. XB's do NOT back-fire up into the airbox unless spark plugs are bad and/or grounding system for the ecm is faulty. in lieu of endless question streams simply read up both on here and in manual where your grounds are and inspect each and every one closely.
    6-your fuel is in your frame. the frame has 3 openings. top right corner for vent assembly....lower left spar for pump assembly.....gas cap opening. do NOT ride any further till you inspect all 3 areas closely for signs of weepage/leaks/obvious problems. remove airbox cover(4 #27 Torx) to access vent and rubber line. be certain line is clear and routed correctly. raw fuel aroma has the potential to be disastrous. check gas cap gasket. address this immediately.
    7-your swingarm drain plug and primary assembly drain plug interchange. both carry identical O-ring. should be replaced every other oil change. you're changing your own oil??? change the primary fluid at the same time. why? you have no idea the type of fluid in the primary/trans assembly nor its condition. type and condition greatly affect shifting and longevity of components. DO NOT over-tighten either plug. use common sense. can't find this O-ring? send me a message and i'll send you 2 FREE OF CHARGE.


    Last edited by lunaticfringe; 02-14-2018 at 02:11 PM.

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