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Thread: Live Data Table

  1. #1
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    Live Data Table

    Looked around to see if I could find what my default values should be but didn't find anything so thought I'd post mine for others to reference. I can figure out what most, but not all of it, means. The final two values aren't listed in the electronics manual (4-4) and I don't know what they represent.

    This is at Idle after startup on 60 degree day

    LIVE DATA DISPLAYED UNITS
    Battery Voltage Fluctuates constantly around 14 v
    Coolant 15 Celsius
    Coolant Voltage 3.6 v
    Airtemp Celsius 18 Celsius
    Airtemp Voltage 4 Volts
    TPS Percent Open 2.0 to 2.5
    TPS Voltage 0.5 v
    Clutch State 0 or 1 0
    V Speed State 0 or 1 0
    MAP KPA 42-43 KPA
    MAP Voltage 2.5 v
    IAC Steps 89-90 Steps open
    Fuel KPA 410 KPA
    Fuel Voltage 2.9 v
    FRT 02 Voltage 0.6 v
    Rear 02 Voltage 0.5 v
    Tipover Voltage 1.3 v
    S Stand Voltage 5.0 v
    F adapt fuel 100 Percent
    R adapt fuel 100 Percent
    Starter Relay State 0
    Aux Power State 1
    SW 6.2
    CAL 1.0

  2. #2
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    Bat-1, I'm assuming you pulled these values on an Android device with ECMDroid? Which values exactly are you wanting to know more about? These posted are current "live" values for the sensor but if you would like to know the range they are all set to work in you can pull the EEPROM data, in the APP save the EEPROM to the phone and name it something you will be able to search for with a file manager program, by default it will be saved on the devices internal storage in a folder labeled "EEPROM", you may also find the same name folder on the external storage if you have one but you will not find your saved EEPROM. The file will have a .XPR extension.

    Once you have this file send it to a windows computer and DL the TunerProRT software here (free to use) make sure to grab the RT version. http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm. Grab the BUELL plug-in located here http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadPlugins.html. Grab the XDF and ADX that matches your ECM firmware (example BUE2D) here http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadBinDefs.htm#Buell. Go to my shared drive link here and install this before anything listed above https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/f...XMtMWvHEJ-VFSs. Also you will see TunerPro final draft pdf, grab that and it will walk you though installing TunerProRT along with where to put and you to make use of all the stuff you've just downloaded.


    If you want to compare your EEPROM data to a completely stock (unmodified one if you think someone has done any changes) go to this link http://www.ecmspy.com scroll down and on the left side you will see your ECMID (example BUE2D) select that and across the top there will be a stock .bin file which you can load in TunerProRT. You can load a .bin or .txt or .epr or .xpr as the EEPROM extension, just change the option to all files instead of .bin when loading into TunerProRT

  3. #3
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    Those values are what I read off my IC in diagnostic "live data" mode.

    Good info to know, thanks. I ordered the Buelltooth adapter so should be able to use some of this next week.

    My CEL hasn't stayed on or did the on/off thing to signal historical codes but I get the Comm Error U0001 when I read codes in Diagnostic mode.

    Followed the flow chart in the manual and end up with "Replace and Reprogram ECU." Now that's assuming no shorts (I just went the 'no' path on those) as I think those are highly unlikely in a low mileage bike where the wiring looks like it was installed yesterday.

    I'm going to updated my ecm file and see if that clears things up. If not I'll have to check for shorts or just ignore it as she starts and runs just fine.

  4. #4
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    Forgive me as I don't own a 1125R but on the XB's something similar happens when the seat has pushed on the ECM harness and fatigued the plug connections (grey plug/black plug). A hair line crack develops around the colored plug and the main ECM body. With the plug now able to flex away from the ECM a momentary loss of communication happens between the ECM and the main harness. Alternatively if these two plugs are not fully seated and clipped in, the same could happen.

    I realize your ECM is not located under the seat but the POD. I'd still look at the ECM to see if it has started to develop the crack and look to make sure the main harness has been seated and clipped in properly as the first thing, I'd also go over all ground connections (especially main harness to ground) as a loss here would also cause communication issues.

  5. #5
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    Got my Buelltooth clone and linked in with ECMdroid. Very cool. Easily worth $36 even if I never really need it. It came up with two historical codes. I cleared them and we'll see if they return.

    I'm going to remove, clean and reattach my two grounds tomorrow. They look fine but you can't ever be sure with grounds. I was rewiring a trailer last week that was acting haunted. At one point it was flashing both turn signals when activating right but normal when activating left. Cleaned the ground on the car, which wasn't rusty and looked fine, and all was well.

  6. #6
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    After clearing my historical codes with the Buelltooth clone all has been well for the past couple weeks. No more COM error or codes. Yesterday after an hour ride I put a probe into the gas tank to feel/measure the bubbling gas. It was not boiling, just bubbling. Maybe it's boiling lower in the tank/frame near the header but the gas felt cool to the touch. Or maybe it's bubbling for some other reason.

    I get no dripping out the vent tube after a ride but I do get a fair bit of venting as she cools down. Obviously I have the non CA version without the can.

    Still loving it, even after paying $38 for a can of touch up paint. Sheesh.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    It is technically "boiling", but gas boils at a lower temp than water and Ethanol even lower than that! (only 170* IIRC). I am unaware of a solution other than rotating the engine and insulating the frame from heat.

    You may get condensate (dripping) when the ambient temp is lower. If it bothers you, you can add a small charcoal canister: Literally, that is a can with activated charcoal in it to catch the fumes. You'll need to vent it to a ported vacuum source at the throttle body.

    Personally, I route the fuel vent line to just below the rear axle so the gas and vapors won't get on anything or the tire.



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