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Thread: Rear brake pads

  1. #1
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Rear brake pads

    Yes, another rear brake pad thread. I use my rear brake mainly in city riding approaching stop lights/signs, etc. so mainly low speed stuff. I've got an EBC rotor and EBC HH pads right now and the brakes are not great - the pads are worn out so it's time. The initial bite was never very strong and unless I really heat them up they don't perform well on the street. What are some other good options to try? I was considering Hawk HMC1003 (organic) or HMC5003 (sintered) as a test. Also Braking CM56 and SM1. The reason I'm looking at the semi-metallics instead of sintered is because they perform better when cold. Since my rear brake never really heats up due to lack of use, maybe the semi-metallic will function better?

  2. #2
    Senior Member GregoXB's Avatar
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    My 2 cents, OEM rotor and pads in the rear.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    You know what, I've actually got EBC FA140 pads in the back - which are organic, I believe... not the HH as I had thought. So switching to the HH compound might improve things?

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    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    The Buell rear brake sucks. I don't know why. I think its a OE master cylinder thats too big because its a hard pedal and no stopping force.

    You shouldn't be able to tell a hot/cold difference in a street pad unless they weren't bedded properly. If the rotor doesn't have any pad material transferred to it, or (it was cleaned off) you could get a slick when cold symptom.

    FWIW I never use the rear brake anyway, unless the STT is off road!

  5. #5
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Well, I certainly use it when approaching a stop cautiously in the city since it's much more gradual and has less bite. There's numerous options out there, but not sure what I will run out back next. I've looked at the Ferodo ST, SBS, Braking CM56, Hawk, and EBC HH.

  6. #6
    Member LouWambsganss's Avatar
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    I have a slight grudge against Lyndall, because they sell a pack of two pads for the 8 piston ZTL2 caliper, but they never mention that it is not a full 4-pad set. However, the product is good. I have the Gold+ pad material and like it. It is organic.

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    Cooter, where does that road go and how far are those mountains from you ? Also, if you don't mind answering this one, is there a beer stop or do you have to bring your own ?

    Oh yeah, is there any after markets to improve the rear brakes performance, oops, never mind I found my answer, which is no, there really is no way to improve the rear brake's performance.
    Last edited by njloco; 04-13-2018 at 02:36 PM.

  8. #8
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by njloco View Post
    is there any after markets to improve the rear brakes performance, oops, never mind I found my answer, which is no, there really is no way to improve the rear brake's performance.
    Bleed bleed bleed and then bleed it some more! The rear brake has plenty of stopping power but does have a terrible "wooden" feel which makes modulation of biting force not so easy. I suspect it is the master cylinder as Cooter pointed out. This is a common trait of to large of MC, feel goes out the window, smaller would bring modulation and feel but require more pedal pressure for the same force. Taking the time to get every last little bit of trapped air from the system makes them work very well aside from feel. Maybe the fact I use Motul RBF 600 also made the improvement.

    Mesozoic, can't think there is a better cold temp material than organic, the more "track" or "race" oriented the pad is made for, the higher the ideal working temp range for bite is going to be. Maybe it is just the wooden feel that is throwing you off?

    EDIT:

    I want to play the STT's in the dirt game too! I was on Q3's! And yes of course we had cold beer with us.
    20161008_161053.jpg
    Last edited by lowkey; 04-13-2018 at 04:02 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    I'm also running Motul RBF 600, but what's throwing me off is that the rear brake in my 1125CR works great for the same purposes I need the XB rear brake for. The CR is new to me however, so I don't know what pads it's running. I don't think it's the same brake, either.

  10. #10
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    smaller would bring modulation and feel but require more pedal pressure for the same force.

    that is incorrect. for the same identical amount of applied pressure the smaller the bore of a master cylinder the greater the line pressure that is generated. the larger the bore the greater amount of fluid volume that is "moved" thru the system and which coincides with the amount of calipers and size of them that the master cylinder is required to operate.

    this goofy thread fails to identify and understand the "smallness" of both the rear brake rotor...the caliper....and the size of the twin pads. why is the system "wooden" in feel and small in stature? simple. to prevent unwanted rear wheel lock-up.



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