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Thread: Rear brake pads

  1. #11
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    njloco: That's an entrance to the Southern/ West end of the Grand Canyon, near Peach Springs (just past Hackberry), AZ off Route 66. You can get to the Skywalk from there (60 miles!)
    No beer, no gas, no nothing. Awesome But theres always a flask in the saddlebags, I'm a rolling BATFE nightmare

    You could buy pads all day, but the easiest definitive solution is more pressure.

    Rear masters for motorcycles are cheap and (mostly) mount the same so I'm looking for a smaller master, or to change the pivot on the pedal. Then the foot pedal will travel more. Either way I will get more fluid pressure with the same pedal pressure. It will allow better modulation as well to prevent lock-ups. I could run a bigger caliper for the same result but that would be harder to find with the right mounts etc. On the never ending list of projects

  2. #12
    Senior Member lowkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    smaller would bring modulation and feel but require more pedal pressure for the same force.

    that is incorrect. for the same identical amount of applied pressure the smaller the bore of a master cylinder the greater the line pressure that is generated. the larger the bore the greater amount of fluid volume that is "moved" thru the system and which coincides with the amount of calipers and size of them that the master cylinder is required to operate.

    this goofy thread fails to identify and understand the "smallness" of both the rear brake rotor...the caliper....and the size of the twin pads. why is the system "wooden" in feel and small in stature? simple. to prevent unwanted rear wheel lock-up.
    Yep, my mistake... it's been a few years since I was researching this for picking an MC for the ZTL2. Just glad I picked the right MC that seems to work perfect (2006 Hayabusa), both feel and required pressure. Had a 50/50 shot of getting them mixed up and I of course did...

    I'd still have to argue that a wooden feel could cause wheel lock-up much more easily because of the lack of feedback through the pedal. On the front you know exactly what you are going to get based on feel through the leaver. Done enough both front and rear become muscle memory to get exactly what you want from each brake.
    Last edited by lowkey; 04-13-2018 at 04:51 PM.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Mesozoic's Avatar
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    Has anyone used the SBS LS sintered rear pads? I see people reviewing them on EBRForums and several others stating they're pretty good.

  4. #14
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    Looks like a real nice road for ully's and Stt's with the right tires. Must be a great ride and plenty of good places in those mountains to camp. I was out that way back in the late 70's, the canyon is mind boggling to say the least. Someday soon I hope to get out there again but this time I'll have a bike, hopefully the Buell.

    I get why the longer brake peddle would work but I can't seem to grasp why the smaller reservoir would do anything, unless it works like the principle of the example lunatic gives above ?

  5. #15
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    A smaller M/C piston requires more travel to move the same amount of fluid. You have to be careful not to go to small as theres not much travel to work with.

  6. #16
    Senior Member jl551c's Avatar
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    FWIW I never use the rear brake anyway, unless the STT is off road!

    Love that picture Cooter. Makes me want to be there.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    OK! First one to the end gets to name it I was thinking Los Cooters caerán?



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