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Thread: 3 bearing wheel conversion issues

  1. #11
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    Hey Lunatic. The dealership I bought from helped me figure out that I have had the spacer bushing on the wrong side. BUT the reason I did so was because 1) that's the way it showed up out of the box and 2) it fits snug I a recess on the pulley side but just sits loose on top of the bearing on the disk side. Is this correct?

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    Last edited by bukwylde87; 05-12-2018 at 04:15 PM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Yes. It absolutely fits on the disk side. Take a look at the diagram Lunatic gave you in post #2.

    It also explains why the disk wasn't lined up. Install it that way, but be sure to follow the manuals instructions on how to properly torque the rear axle twice.

  3. #13
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    I agree it goes on the disk sideand that is why nothing fit correctly but that's not my question. I want to know if the spacer is just supposed to be loose and sit on top of the bearing. I explained my torquing procedure earlier in the thread. Yes I did it twice.

  4. #14
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    I want to know if the spacer is just supposed to be loose and sit on top of the bearing.

    yes

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Oh! The dust seals are only on the 3 bearing wheels? I thought it was a Uly thing. Ok cool, and never mind. haha.

    10 bearings, 2 belts and 5 tires later, you'd think I'd know!

    eTUG5e3tTFG6dq6Pm+0CnA by Cooter!, on Flickr
    Off subject, but are those stands a universal bike stand of some kind (they look adjustable for swing arm width)? Where do you buy these?

    And how many mile intervals are you having to replace bearings?

  6. #16
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    They are paddock stands. Universal, but there are some made that aren't wide enough so you might have to stretch them wider to fit a Buell.

    IIRC the manual says every 25k? I replace mine every time I put on new tires because when they fail, they do so catastrophically and its $25 of insurance.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    They are paddock stands. Universal, but there are some made that aren't wide enough so you might have to stretch them wider to fit a Buell.

    IIRC the manual says every 25k? I replace mine every time I put on new tires because when they fail, they do so catastrophically and its $25 of insurance.
    Are they difficult to replace on your own or do you just follow the manual? You don't need a press to press them in do you?

  8. #18
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    No press.
    I have my cheats, but the best way is a blind bearing puller ($40-ish), and to carefully tap the new one in with a bearing race tool or use the old bearing as a the thing to hit. Do NOT hammer directly on the new bearing. Takes less than 5 mins.

    While they are out, measure the bearing spacer. accurately. It's unreal how easily they get squished undersize and then will side load the ball bearings for pre-mature failure. Why the heck they aren't tapered roller bearings, I'll never know.

  9. #19
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    All,

    I can definitely testify that Coot is a master of road side bearing repairs--he always has the correct tools for the job.

    BTW, my two bearing '09 Uly wheel had a sloppy bearing housing. I changed out the wheel to a 3 bearing one. In the process, noticed that the new wheel says "made in China". It came from St Paul .....

    Well, it goes around and holds air so so far(5000 miles) so good.

    Opto

  10. #20
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    Would it be worth just buying a new bearing spacer when I redo the bearings then?



    So you when you tap in the bearings, do you just make sure it looks visibly flush? Or do they bottom out on a lip inside the hub?



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