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Thread: Getting rid of hot glue residue on the inside of a translucid airbox top

  1. #11
    No headlight resto kit will save me, because i sanded the whole thing from 320/400/600/800/1000/1500/2000 first to get rid of crazing (that i inflicted), and i have scratches from that step-up process where i rushed the latter bits.

    It's, IMO, really hard to see sand scratches at 800 grit or higher until it's polished fully.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    The bucket of water you're using to soak the sandpaper in and keep the sand paper wet and clean, should have just a couple drops of dish soap in it. A little plastic squeegee like they use for bondo will get the water off the part and the soap will dry quickly and show any parts not sanded uniformly. If you leave the part wet, you can't tell.

    With eyes like mine, I need all the help I can get!

    And usually no need to do all the grits like that. The first go over (with the roughest paper you need) will take the longest, by far. If you do a good job on the first one, every step after just needs a uniform job and will go quickly. 180 or 240, 400, 1000, compound, polish, wax is what gave my really beat up Buell plastic a perfect mirror finish. It took a full half-day and a 6-pack, but all the parts are pristine!

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    , should have just a couple drops of dish soap in it.
    I've never heard of dish soap being in the water. Why? To reduce friction? or help clean the area? or both ? or some other reason?

    I may have to try this next time I wet sand.


    Edit: never mind... I re-read Cooters post.
    Last edited by 34nineteen; 05-16-2018 at 02:23 AM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Car wash soap, not dish soap. Dish soap has salt and even sometimes bleach in it. In the collision industry we use car wash soap. Or you can use a little baby shampoo. No salts, no harsh detergents no extra bs.

    And starting polishing at 1000 is quite an endeavor. I've never polished translucent plastics, but 2k is the minimum for me on paint

  5. #15
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I've been using 99 store dish soap, but no ones told be better until now. I respect your knowledge Buelly and will do that from now on! Heck, it's only a couple drops.

    I used to go to 1500 but the 3M Perfect-it is pretty a badass compound and works quickly at 1000. Some 3M Finesse-it, Wax and BAM!

    I recently came across some Kick-Ash plastics that need a little more help than just a hand polish/wax, so I'll report back what I find on those. If they're hazy, I'll go to 2000.

  6. #16
    My technique was to sand each successive grit at 90 degrees to the previous, so when i saw the crosshatching disappear, i figured i was good. Turns out there's still visible crosshatching now that it's all done, so i didn't even get that process quite right. Funnily enough, my 62 beetle had sand marks under the paint, also crosshatched at 90 deg, and i was like "the painter was a HACK" (he was) but then i did the same sins myself on this project. Once you start sanding, the plastic looks like **** til you add water, then it looks magically OK, and at lower grits, i could see it looked worse in problem areas, but not so with finer paper.

    The squeegee may have helped me here, i'll try that next go-round.

    I'll try to get some shots of the current state if you guys don't mind suggesting what grit i should start over at?

  7. #17
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I've been using 99 store dish soap, but no ones told be better until now. I respect your knowledge Buelly and will do that from now on! Heck, it's only a couple drops.

    I used to go to 1500 but the 3M Perfect-it is pretty a badass compound and works quickly at 1000. Some 3M Finesse-it, Wax and BAM!

    I recently came across some Kick-Ash plastics that need a little more help than just a hand polish/wax, so I'll report back what I find on those. If they're hazy, I'll go to 2000.
    the dish soap isnt a real big issue on an "off the vehicle" plastic repair situation. but on a car or bike different story. and its not life or death by any means! JUST DIDN'T WANT ANY NEWBS WASHING THEIR BIKE WITH DAWN PLUS BLEACH ALTERNATIVE AND WONDERING WHY EVERYTHING WAS ALL CORRODED THE NEXT DAY LOL

  8. #18
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Cooter: have you ever tried using a DA (dual action orbital sander) on these plastics? Like i said I've never polished a set, but for the more experienced, 3m's dry DA goes up to 1500 or maybe even 2k and then has trizact 3000 all for the DA. Might save some elbow grease!

  9. #19
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Tell me what you think. Honestly.

    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...cratch-removal

    Note that part where the DA overheats and blisters the plastic (but only with the heavier grits). 1000 and up seemed fine but theres so many curves, I felt better by hand.

  10. #20
    Senior Member BuellyBagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    Tell me what you think. Honestly.

    https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showth...cratch-removal

    Note that part where the DA overheats and blisters the plastic (but only with the heavier grits). 1000 and up seemed fine but theres so many curves, I felt better by hand.
    Great right up. Honestly! cheers to you!



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