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Thread: 2003 XB9R Rebuild

  1. #41
    I purchased a set of stands from GPI Industries. https://www.gpiindustries.com/stands
    I got the ones that are mandrel bent (GP PRO series), NOT the two piece version(GP PRO series II). They are still out of stock on the steering head lift portion, so I made an adapter for the right fork leg to make it equal length. This allows you to use the standard lift brackets. The adapter I made would apply to any standard fork lift style, not just this brand. It was easy to make with a 3/8-16 bolt/(shallow)nut and a piece of 1/2 thick wood. I made a 1.625" square with a hole in the middle for the bolt. The head of the bolt will go up in the fork leg so the adapter can't fall out. You will need to inset the nut(3/4" spade bit). Someone with a cnc machine should make a billet piece with a neo magnet insert so it will latch on the axle. These stands are more than adequate to hold the bike for ages. You should however, loosen all bolts before you lift the front if you are taking anything off, or putting it back on.

  2. #42
    Got the new wheel bearings in the front, and the weird diving / turning is gone. The old ones were pretty crusty. Newest problem is the bike isn't charging so that's a bummer! I'll be trying to diagnose what's wrong. Any good place to start? Fuses maybe

  3. #43
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Theres an easy set of tests for the Stator and VR played out in the Service manual. Easy check.

    Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com has it for free.

  4. #44
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    Test voltage regulator and stator according electric manual procedures. Not sure if service manual has this information.

  5. #45
    I'm getting 15v ac at idle, around 25ish at 2k between each of the 3 pins in the connector in front of the drive pulley. Tried every combination with my meter and didn't see any differences between the readings that stood out

  6. #46
    Those are stator readings btw. So it looks like that's checking out good. Could it then be the voltage regulator? And if it is should I leave it unplugged so it doesn't fry the stator?

  7. #47
    Senior Member Silverrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    I see a can of seafoam on that John deer. Is Tea bag helping you ?
    Good eye Outlaw . LOL

  8. #48
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    Thanks Silver Rider

  9. #49
    Rode it around some and it seems to be keeping the battery charged. I'm going to replace the VR anyways because it's probably on it's way out, and I think I'm going to switch to a newer bikes one, such as a yamaha or a cbr. Seems like the consensus is those units are a lot more efficient and seem to last a lot longer.

  10. #50
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    So does it work? Not work? intermittent? Confusing post is confusing...
    You have a DVOM to check the stator output but have to ride to see if the battery "seems" to be charging?


    Stock VR's are cheap and reliable. The Buell's are a shunt-style so it wastes any electricity made by the stator directly to ground, making the charging system work 100% all the time.
    An upgrade to the stock Buell VR would be a non-shunt style so the stator only makes the electricity it needs to on demand, and MOSFET switched of course.

    Put your voltmeter on the battery. You should have 12.5 DCV nominal. Any less and stop, charge it with a battery charger. Then continue. NOTE: A battery tender is not a charger.
    Turn on the ignition and crank the bike. You should have greater than 9.6DCV. Any less is probably a bad battery.
    Idle should have 12.5DCV, 2500+RPM should be 13.5-14.7DCV. Less could be lots of things, more is a bad VR.



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